Serradura – the Portuguese dessert is one of the few items that lands itself on menus at both Macanese and Chinese restaurants in Macau. Meaning “saw dust” in Portuguese, the simple layered dessert is made of crushed biscuits, condensed milk (an ingredient also very present in Southern Chinese and South East Asian desserts) and whipped cream put together in layers. Like Tiramisu, one has to be careful not to inhale the fine powdery “saw dust” biscuit crumbs lest you choke on them before you get to enjoy your dessert.
There are actually two desserts that you really should order at Portuguese restaurants, Serradura and Chocolate mousse – both simple recipes but most times done really well.
Fei long, is an old Macanese restaurant in the former red light district of Rua de Felicidade run by an old couple. The chef is Portuguese and his wife Chinese, and neither speak barely a word of English, but they serve up delicious Macanese cuisine. The finale of the meal is Serradura – she cautions you not to speak a word and to eat quietly for fear you might choke on the fine biscuit crumbs.
After much research however, I’m afraid to report that there seems to be very little culinary history about this simple dessert that holds such a dear sweet spot in the heart of Macau, and transcends the East-West divide on menus.
Some other favourite spots to get yourself a bowl of this light, fluffy dessert in Old Taipa village include A Petisqueria, Café Litoral, a dessert shop aptly called “Serradura”.
In Macau, a lovely spot for coffee and tea is at Riquexó, where your Macanese dishes are as authentic as they can get, especially if you’re lucky enough to get to meet the proprietor, Aida Jesus who has plenty of interesting stories to tell about Macau.