Facial oils and oil-based serums are one of my favourite skincare products. They are like the holy grail of my entire skincare routine. They nourish, they lubricate and they create a protective barrier on the surface of the skin to shield it from the environment. They do all that and more, but one thing is for sure – they do not hydrate.
Confusing? I bet it is for many people, as it’s very common, with a quick Google search, to find a lot of statements and “expert” advice about the hydrating properties of oils. So, how is it that you bought one of these miraculous oils and your skin got even drier than it was before?
Let’s try to understand better how facial oils work and how to use them to avoid skin dryness.
Why facial oils are so awesome
Facial oils have been around for a very long time, used as traditional herbal remedies all over the world. Herbalists knew about these goodies way before the cosmetic industry did. They have been infusing different carrier oils (like olive, almond, jojoba, sunflower etc.) with therapeutic plants for ages. They know that these infusions are amazing for maintaining a healthy skin barrier function and microbiome.
It comes as no surprise that, when these products became trendy, they easily conquered the hearts – and faces – of thousands of consumers. They are a must-have in any well-structured skincare regime.
First of all, they are packed with minerals, vitamins, antioxidants and essential fatty acids, which are just amazing for healthy looking skin. Secondly the bio-availability of all the nutrients they contain is way better than the bio-availability of nutrients in water-based products. This is because the skin is a semi-permeable barrier. It allows some substances in and keeps other substances out. The barrier is lipophilic (oil loving) and hydrophobic (water hating). Long story short, oil-soluble nutrients have a better chance of being absorbed into the deeper layers of the skin than water-soluble nutrients.
Are facial oils good for every skin type?
Yes! Even people with oily skin can benefit from the use of facial oils. The trick is to pick the right blend, appropriate for your unique skin type and condition. Every single oil has its own unique fatty acid profile. There are hundreds of oils out there, each one with a different fatty acid profile, more or less appropriate for your particular skin. When choosing an oil, you must take into consideration the compatibility of the essential fatty acid profile of the oil with the lipid matrix of your skin. There is no universal mixture that will work for everyone, but with a little knowledge and practice, everyone can find his/her new miracle oil blend.
Why your facial oil might dry your skin and how to avoid it
As mentioned before, oils by themselves don’t hydrate. To hydrate means to absorb water, and since oils don’t contain any water, they can’t hydrate your skin by themselves. The only products that can do so are the water containing ones. Oils can however seal in the existing moisture in your skin, but they won’t add hydration themselves.
Therefore, if you apply oil onto a dry face you will most probably end up with dry skin, very fast.
To avoid this, you must first apply water or a water-based product to your skin, and only then, without drying your face, “capture”/”seal” it inside with your oil. This way you will truly hydrate your skin, while providing it with all the beneficial nutrients of your oil blend.
