Bouncy, soft, plump, perky, fine-lines free, deeply hydrated skin. All this and more is what hyaluronic acid (HA) has to offer. Dermatologists and other skincare experts vouch for it and with good reason. HA is truly the holy grail for bouncy, hydrated skin. It is plastered all over thousands of labels of beauty products because it is pretty much one of the best ingredients to boost your skin’s moisture levels. Let’s see how to use it correctly and how to choose the right products!
What is hyaluronic acid?
HA is a natural component of our skin responsible for keeping it plump. It works like a sponge that retains over 1,000 times its weight in water. As we age, our natural levels of HA decrease and so our skin becomes less and less bouncy and more and more wrinkly.
Size matters.
HA comes in different molecular weights and a smaller weight equals a smaller size. The smaller the molecules, the deeper into your skin the HA will get. This is important because the ingredient acts differently on the surface of the skin and within its deeper layers.
When you opt for HA with a higher molecular weight, it will sit on your skin’s surface and it will deliver a quick visible effect. You will really see your complexion become plumper and fresher within minutes. However, this effect will disappear as soon as you wash your face.
On the other hand, if you choose HA with a lower molecular weight, you will have to wait at least a month or two to see the first results. The wait is worth it though, as a lower molecular weight HA will help your skin sustain moisture for longer and it will slow down the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Which form of hyaluronic acid should you choose?
It depends on your expectations. If you are looking for a quick fix before a night out, go for a product with a high molecular weight HA. If you are more interested in aging prevention and long-lasting hydration, low molecular weight HA is the right choice for you.
Cosmetic brands are not obliged by any regulations to inform their clients which form of HA they use. Some brands try to differentiate themselves by advertising that their products contain multiple weights of HA, but they generally won’t tell you which type of HA is the prevalent one. A good indicator however is the level of stickiness of the final product. The stickier your serum is, the better the chance that it has higher molecular weight HA.
If you really feel that your skin is seriously saggy and aged and you feel that topical HA is not enough for you, HA injectables (derma fillers) are also an option. They give better anti-aging results than topical products, but they do come with possible side effects and should be applied by a carefully chosen specialist.
The best way to use HA.
HA has become so popular among consumers that, in the hope of increasing sales, cosmetic brands tend to put it in almost every formulation. You can find it literally everywhere – in cleansers, toners, masks, creams, serums etc.
Should you then go all-in and make sure HA is present in every step of your skincare routine? There is really no need for it. The key here is not to use HA in every step of your routine, but to use it in the correct way and under specific conditions.
As mentioned before, HA attracts and retains water, but first it has to pull that water from somewhere. To make sure it won’t pull it from within your skin, it is best to apply HA on damp skin.
Also, to keep that moisture from evaporating, HA should be sealed with an occlusive – an ingredient that will form a film on top of your skin (cocoa butter, shea butter, beeswax are just some examples of occlusives). There are two ways to achieve this. You can either use an HA serum and then seal it with a moisturizer and/or face oil, or you can simply choose a moisturizer that already contains HA.
The bottom line
If you have ever wondered which beauty ingredients are really worth your money, I assure you that HA is one of them. It is really an ingredient for everyone, even for people with acne-prone skin or rosacea. With continuous use it will help you slow down aging and will make your skin look and feel its best at all times.
