Opinion

How to choose the best acid for your skin? AHA, BHA, PHA, PHBA – what’s the difference

Putting acids on your skin might sound slightly terrifying at first, but the reality is that this weird practice has revolutionized the skincare market since it was first introduced about 50 years ago. Now, acronyms like AHA, BHA, PHA and PHBA are well known among customers looking for smooth, healthy skin. I’m sure you have at least stumbled upon some of them, but do you know what they really mean and which of these acids  (yes, they are all acids) is best for your specific needs? Maybe you have tried one, but it proved too harsh for you? Maybe you are looking for a gentler alternative that also gives amazing results, but you don’t know how to choose? Let me guide you through all this confusion!
 
The basics
 
Let’s first try to understand the common uses of all the hydroxy acids that you can put on your skin. 
 
I know, I know…hydro-what?  Hydroxy acids. A group of acids, divided into classes represented by all the trendy acronyms you have already heard:
 
• AHAs – alfa hydroxy acids
• BHAs – beta hydroxy acids
• PHAs – poly hydroxy acids
• PHBAs– poly hydroxy bionic acids
 
Regardless of which type you choose, all these ingredients do wonders for the skin as they all speed up cell turnover. The skin, of course, sheds by itself, but this process slows down as we get older. The acids provide a boost, so the skin sheds quicker, revealing a smoother, younger and healthier looking complexion. So, all these acids: exfoliate, clarify, unclog pores, aid in acne prevention, and give the skin a healthy glow. 
 
How to choose the right acid for your skin? 
 
All hydroxy acids are highly effective at skin exfoliation – that’s a given. However, they all have different secondary uses and they suit different skin types. I’m surely not going to tell you that one is “better” than the other, because there is really no “better” one. They simply work in different ways, address different concerns and suit different skin types. Let’s see how they differ!
 
AHA
 
AHAs are the biggest group of hydroxy acids, and also the most well-known. They work best for people with dry, normal and combination skin. They are water soluble, which means that they work predominantly on the surface of the skin. They are good at treating mild hyperpigmentation, scars and uneven skin tone. They have humectant properties which makes them good at keeping the skin hydrated. They are also excellent for mature skin as they have anti-aging properties and help to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles.  
 
Not all AHAs are made equal. Their exfoliating powers vary greatly with glycolic acid being the most powerful one (glycolic acid is kind of a trouble maker though as it is also the most irritating of the AHAs).  For drier skin types, lactic acid would be a safer bet because of its additional hydrating profile.   If your skin suffers from frequent inflammatory conditions, mandelic acid would be the one for you. 
 
BHA
 
Probably when you think of BHAs, salicylic acid (SA) comes to mind. This is a common misconception, as SA does not function as other BHAs and shouldn’t be considered a part of the BHA group. However, because most of the market believes SA is actually “the” BHA most used in skincare, let’s just treat it as such. 
 
The main difference between AHA and Salicylic Acid is that SA has a smaller molecular size and is oil-soluble so it can penetrate deeper into the pores, balance sebum production and voilà.. improve your pores’ condition from within. If you have oily skin and your face looks bumpy with a lot of blocked pores, SA is the acid for you. Additionally, it has a great anti-inflammatory and antibacterial profile, which makes it beneficial for people who need to treat acne and calm red, inflamed skin. 
 
PHA and PHBA
 
PHA (look for gluconolactone) and PHBA (look for lactobionic acid) are a new generation of AHAs. Think of them as super-powered AHAs that solve the same skincare dilemmas as AHAs but with low to no irritation at all. They work for all skin types, but are especially great for those who have very dry or sensitive skin. So, if you’ve ever tried any AHA or BHA and ended up ditching it because it provoked excessive dryness or irritation on your skin, go ahead and try gluconolactone or lactobionic acid. 
 
Thanks to their high molecular size they will work their magic exclusively on the surface of your skin without disturbing the deeper layers. They will do it slower than AHAs, but you will still benefit from their exfoliating, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory powers. They will also help your skin retain moisture and will boost the absorption of the other skincare ingredients you use. An additional benefit of PHAs and PHBAs is the fact that, unlike AHAs and BHAs they don’t provoke skin photo-sensitivity, which is particularly great in Macau’s climate. 
 
Cautious choices for long lasting skincare benefits. 
 
Almost anyone can benefit from incorporation of acids into their skincare routine. You don’t need to be a scientist to pick the best acid for your skin. It’s actually pretty simple. Just determine your skin type and decide what your primary skincare concerns are.  
 
Anti-aging benefits – go for AHAs. Oily skin and acne – go for BHAs, or a gentler alternative – PHAs or PHBAs. 
 
Also, I believe it’s always better to choose gentler skincare options, even if you have to wait longer to see the results. There is really no point in buying products with high concentrations of a specific acid if your skin isn’t able to take it all at once. In my opinion, it’s better to start slowly and find the acid or eventually the mix of acids that you can continue using for years.
Facebook
WhatsApp
Threads
X
Email

Older Issues

Living and Arts Magazine

現已發售 NOW ON SALE

KNOW MORE LiVE BETTER