Clay – A humble yet super effective beauty ingredient that nature has to offer. It is truly one of the very best ingredients out there in terms of purifying and cleansing, but I’m sure you already knew that. Who hasn’t heard of clay masks, right?!
Clay has been in use for thousands of years and over time many clay deposits have been discovered. Nowadays, we have plenty of colorful clays to choose from that are being jarred and sold all over the world (since traveling to Morocco or France just to get a face mask is a bit impractical). All types of clay have proven benefits, but not all of them are good for every skin type. I’m here today to help you clear up all the doubts you may have about which clay is the right one for you.
You might be thinking that clay is just a simple dirt that comes in different colors, but believe me it has more nuances than you can imagine. Not all clay is made equal and the color is not the only thing that differentiates it. Each type of clay has a different mineral makeup that determines not only the clay’s hue, but also how it works and which skin type it serves best.
Based on how clays work, we can divide them into two types – absorbent and adsorbent.
Absorbent clays are like a sponge, they absorb water. They absorb excess sebum, dead skin cells, etc. and are best for oilier skin. Adsorbent clays on the other hand are like a magnet. They hold dirt and grime on their surface and they don’t suck out moisture as absorbent clays do. They are best for dry and sensitive skin types.
Another way to divide clays is by their mineral components. There are three main clay groups from a cosmetic point of view – kaolinite, illite and smectite (montmorillonite). You can, for example, buy green Illite and green montmorillonite, both being sold as French Green Clay. That’s why it’s important for you to know the ABC's of your clays and know what you’re paying for.
Which Clay is Right for Your Skin?
Let’s cut to the chase and see what each clay group has to offer your skin.
Firstly, let’s look at smectite. The most common clays in this group are bentonite (Montmorillonite), rhassoul (Maroccan Lava Clay) and Fuller’s Earth (Multani Mitti Clay).
If you have acne-prone, combination or oily skin, bentonite is the clay for you. Composed of ash sediments, this clay will not only help clear up your acneic complexion, but will also help your pores appear smaller.
Rhassoul, a staple clay of many luxurious spas, works best for normal and oily skin. It is especially beneficial for aging skin that needs some firming, circulatory stimulation and exfoliation. This ancient mineral-rich clay has a very high concentration of silica and magnesium which makes it a great ingredient to revitalize tired skin.
Similar to rhassoul, Fuller’s Earth Clay works best for oily skin. It has mild bleaching properties, so it is a go-to clay for hyperpigmentation.
Now, let’s see what the second mineral clay family – kaolinite – has to offer.
Kaolin is the gentlest clay you can find. In general, it is a good choice if you have sensitive skin, and most of its types can be used even on dry skin. The hue and mineral makeup of kaolin differs. As the colors of kaolin deepen, the ability to draw out impurities and oils increases.
White kaolin is the mildest, least drawing clay that works for everyone really, but it is especially beneficial for dry, sensitive complexions. Yellow kaolin also suits dry sensitive skin, but it’s just slightly more absorbent and exfoliating than white kaolin. Pink kaolin suits sensitive combination skin. It still exfoliates gently, but has a bit more drawing capacity. The strongest kaolin is red. It’s a great choice if you have sensitive but acne-prone skin, or if you are in need of circulatory stimulation.
The last clay family to highlight is illite. Although illite comes in different colors, the most common ones used in skincare are green and red. Red illite does a great job at simultaneously purifying congested skin and reviving aging complexions, as it stimulates blood circulation. Green illite, is a soft textured clay sold as famous French Green Clay. Since its beautiful green hue comes from decomposed plant matter, some also call it Sea Clay or Marine Clay. It is a superb detoxifier that does magic for problematic, oily, acne-prone skin.
As you can see, when it comes to clay, the trick is all in the name. Colorful clay masks are very popular and cosmetic companies sometimes blend some natural or synthetic colorants into their masks creating various vibrant hues. You really can’t predict which clay you are buying just by the color. That is why, if you are purchasing face masks not only for the purpose of relaxation, but also for specific skincare benefits, don’t hesitate to take a quick peek at the ingredients list. Once you choose the right clay for your complexion’s needs and you stick with it, you will be sporting your best skin very soon.
