Although alcohol is one of the most frequently used ingredients in cosmetics, it is often misunderstood by many. We may enjoy it in an occasional mojito, but when we think of it as a part of our cream or tonic, we start feeling somewhat uncomfortable with the notion that it might hurt our skin. Is that so? If so, why do so many innovative and competitive skincare companies make it a part of their products? It doesn’t make much sense right? So, what’s the catch?
Is the alcohol in cosmetics always the same? What is its use in skincare?
Most of us may think that every time 'alcohol’ comes up on an ingredient list, it is always the same substance. The truth is that 'alcohol’ is an umbrella term that covers a large group of substances, which not only come in different forms – some liquid, some solid – but also have different effects on your skin and are used for different purposes.
It can be used for its antibacterial effect, it can make a skincare product feel weightless and very pleasant to the touch, it can dissolve fats, it helps other ingredients penetrate the skin, it can help keep your cream more stable, and it can even dissolve cosmetic actives that couldn’t be otherwise.
So as you can see, alcohol can offer an extensive list of benefits from the cosmetic formulator’s point of view.
Good alcohol vs bad alcohol
Not all alcohols are made equal, and yes, some are good for the skin, and some are not.
When you want to avoid the 'bad alcohol’, look for any of the below terms on your cosmetic’s ingredient list: SD alcohol, denatured alcohol, alcohol denat., isopropyl alcohol or ethanol.
If you see any of the above names listed somewhere in the beginning of your cosmetic’s ingredient list, there is no doubt about it – this product will sooner or later harm your skin. The best thing you can do is to put it back on the shelf and look for an alternative.
On the other hand, if you see on the ingredient list some good alcohols’ under names like Behenyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, don’t get scared. They are part of a group called 'fatty alcohols' and are totally safe, and even exceptionally beneficial for your skin. They are lovely ingredients that not only help make your creams more stable and give them a very pleasant texture, but also make your skin more moisturized.
The gray zone
As I mentioned before, if you see 'bad alcohol’ somewhere on the top of an ingredient list, it is surely a bad idea to buy the product. However, what should you do if you see the 'bad name’ as one of the last ingredients? Well, here is where we get into the gray zone… sometimes 'bad alcohols’ are used for a very specific reason – either to incorporate an active ingredient that is otherwise insoluble and couldn’t be included in your cream (like some of the most effective brightening goodies), or to help active ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively (this may be the case with vitamin C serums and retinol containing formulations). In any of the above situations, it is a matter of personal choice whether to use a cosmetic with a 'bad alcohol’ or not. It depends what is more important for you – benefitting from the positive effects that the active ingredients can offer, or trying to avoid the harmful drying, irritation and skin barrier disruption the alcohol might cause.
What about people with oily skin to whom the drying effect of alcohol is especially appealing? The possibility of a less greasy face is very tempting, and yes the 'bad’ alcohol will give you just that. However, as mentioned before, this immediate positive effect will soon be undermined by your skin becoming more sensitive and dehydrated. With so many skin-friendly alternatives out there, I believe people with oily skin still have a lot of other, safer products to choose from.
Now that you have a clearer understanding of the meaning of 'alcohol’, I hope you will feel more confident when shopping for your skincare products. Don’t feel bad or disappointed if a product you like has one of the 'bad alcohols’ in it. I’m sure there is a perfect solution out there for you, that will solve any skincare problem you may have. Just put that one back on the shelf, and keep searching.
