In the third century BC, when Rome was establishing its hegemony in the Mediterranean, China was creating its first unified empire. During the same period, as viticulture was brought to various parts of Europe, rice agriculture was being introduced to Japan.
Across the entire Eurasia, alcoholic beverages seem to be an indispensable part of human civilisation. Sake is to Shinto what wine is to Christianity, and whilst Bacchus (or Dionysus in Greek) was celebrated in the Graeco-Roman world, Japanese sake brewers still bear the respectable title of Toji, from Du Kang, the legendary inventor of the liquor.
As rice agriculture spread from China to Japan during the Yayoi period (300 BC-300 AD), the Japanese wasted little time in turning crops into nectar, to the bewildered amusement of the Chinese, whose own boozy history predates even the oracle bone script. The first unequivocal reference to Japan (Book of Wei, Records of the Three Kingdoms) did mention the Japanese attachment to liquor, and so did Kojiki, Japan’s first written record of history.
Sake became popular during the Nara period (710-794), and was incorporated into religious ceremonies during the Heian period (794-1185). While European winemaking was advanced in Benedictine and Cistercian monasteries, Japanese sake brewing was improved in Shinto shrines. By 1898, an astonishing 46 percent of the government’s total direct tax income actually came from sake, produced by roughly 8,000 breweries.
Dealt a heavy blow during WWII, followed by the invasion of Western beer, spirits and wine, sake now only accounts for two percent of government tax revenue. Less than 2,000 breweries – mostly quality-driven – remain today, but sake is experiencing a renaissance worldwide.
Sake brewing requires shuzo kotekimai (酒造好適米literally: brewing-suitable rice), of which there are about 100 varieties. The exterior, rich in fat and protein, is polished away in the seimai buai process. The rice is then soaked and steamed, with koji (aspergillus oryzae) added to saccharify the starch and ferment the sugar simultaneously (unlike beer, whose saccharification and fermentation occur separately).
The final product is about 20 percent ABV, often watered down to around 15 percent. Since sake brewing consumes a huge amount of water, the characteristics of local water significantly influence the taste of sake. The vintage is usually not indicated, but by law the bottling date is.
By kind invitation of Mr John Ng, Managing Director of Agência Superar, CLOSER recently had the opportunity to sample a kaleidoscopic range of sake produced by six historic breweries, in the presence of the master brewers themselves.
How would you describe the sake market in Macau?
People are increasingly interested in sake, not least because every major integrated resort has at least one high-end Japanese restaurant. In the past decade, we have been leading the way in partnering with other institutions in providing sake training. Education is important for the sustainable growth of this sector.
As a traditional Japanese drink, how versatile can sake be?
Sake is a highly versatile drink to pair with not just Japanese, but also Chinese food, for example Cantonese barbecue, dim sum and hotpot. Served in classy wine glasses, sake is even paired with European and fusion cuisines. Rich and ricey, the old style calls for food, but the new style, fragrant and fresh, can be enjoyed on its own. More so than wine, sake can be enjoyed at a wide range of temperatures, each revealing a different drinking experience.
Kamoizumi Sei Sen Nama Junmai Ginjo
Kamoizumi was established in 1912 in Higashihiroshima, Hiroshima. Made with rice at 58% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with light beige hues, the delicate nose offers mirabelle, rice sponge and lotus. Medium-light bodied at 15.5% with a fresh texture, the lively palate delivers pear, cantaloupe and eucalyptus, leading to a clean finish. Best served chilled.
Sohomare Kimoto Tokubetsu Junmai
Sohomare was established in 1872 in Haga, Tochigi. Made with rice at 60% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with light lemon-yellow hues, the fragrant nose presents pomelo, dango and jasmine. Medium-full bodied at 15% with a fleshy texture, the spicy palate supplies lemon peel, chive and sweet ginger, leading to a savour finish. Can be served chilled, at room temperature or warm.
Rihaku Caro Rose Sake
Rihaku was established in 1882 in Matsue, Shimane. Made with purple rice at 58% polishing ratio. Translucent crimson with shimmering amaranth reflex, the floral nose furnishes red apple peel, rosehip and peony. Medium-bodied at 15.5% with a silky texture, the fruity palate provides white strawberry, rose tisane and hay, leading to an elegant finish. Best served chilled.
Masumi Hiyaoroshi Junmai Ginjo
Masumi was established in 1662 in Suwa, Nagano. Made with rice at 55% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with creamy hues, the idyllic nose offers whitecurrant, peach and daisy. Medium-bodied at 15% with a crispy texture, the pristine palate delivers physalis, ume and ginger blossom, leading to an invigorating finish. Can be served chilled, at room temperature or warm silky texture, the fruity palate provides white strawberry, rose tisane and hay, leading to an elegant finish. Best served chilled.
Dewazakura Omachi Junmai Ginjo
Dewazakura was established in 1891 in Tendo, Yamagata. Made with rice at 50% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with pale citrine hues, the aromatic nose presents pear, rosemary and apple blossom. Medium-full bodied at 16% with a balanced texture, the spicy palate supplies green apple, white pepper and fleur de sel, leading to a persistent finish. Best served chilled.
Tedorigawa Yoshida Gura Junmai Daiginjo
Tedorigawa was established in 1870 in Hakusan, Ishikawa. Made with rice at 45% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with pastel citrine hue, the ethereal nose furnishes Japanese pear, greengage and lily. Medium bodied at 16% with a weightless texture, the poised palate provides bergamot, arhat fruit and springwater, leading to a lingering finish. Best served chilled.
KEY TERMS
The kanji character “酒” can be pronounced as “sake” or “shu”. What is known as sake in English is usually referred to as “nihonshu” (日本酒; literally: Japanese liquor) in Japanese. Japanese law, meanwhile, stipulates that sake is to be labelled as “seishu” (清酒; literally: clear liquor).
Note:
In descending order; percentages denote the portion of rice weight after polishing.
Junmai (純米; literally: pure rice) means no brewer’s alcohol is added.
Nos.1-8 are Tokutei Meishō-shu (特定名称酒, literally: special-designation sake; similar to German Prädikatswein).
CONTACT: Mr John Ng / Agência Superar / E: [email protected] / [email protected] / T: +853 2871 9978 / F: +853 2871 7936
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