Living in Macau, we are spoiled for choice, with so many great Portuguese restaurants offering a wide range of delicious, authentic flavours. So you might think that we really don’t need even more Portuguese restaurants because all the important dishes are already available, right? Well, according to the talented young chefs at Three Sardines, you would be wrong.
“Petiscos is a style of food that has been missing in Macau. It’s a very strong part of gastronomic culture in Portugal, from Lisbon to the north of the country where we’re from,” says Chef André Da Silva Gomes. “Since we were kids, we were used to having Petiscos – small sized portions of main dishes, perfect for sharing with friends and family with a sangria, beer or wine. Usually in a Petiscos House in Portugal you’ll find a grandmother with a towel over her shoulder, cursing at customers and writing up the bill on the table in front of you,” he adds, laughing.
No cursing grandmas in this newly opened restaurant. Just three ambitious and creative chefs, with a nostalgia for the food and experiences of their youth.
“There are things that we miss from home, like braised chicken gizzards and rabbit escabeche, and of course we are Three Sardines so we have to serve sardines,” says André. “We want to showcase that Portuguese food and culture has much more to offer than what is currently in most of the restaurants here. Portuguese cuisine is not just about seafood rice, suckling pig and bacalhau a bras. For one year, you can eat a different dish from the North to the south of the country, and the islands, and you will never eat the same dish twice.”
The other ‘two sardines’ are Chef Pedro Almeida and his brother Mauro Almeida (also a chef), from Chaves in northern Portugal, who have both been working in restaurants in Macau for about five years.
“My mum ran a restaurant since I was ten year’s old so we grew up in a restaurant,” says Pedro. “I started washing the dishes, but after two weeks I didn’t want to do that anymore so I learned how to cook,” he jokes.
In fact, the idea to open a Petiscos restaurant is something that Pedro had been stewing over for quite a while.
“Ever since I arrived five years ago, we had been talking about this idea. In fact we had many different concepts in mind, and we just had to see which spaces were available to see which concept we could create,” Pedro explains.
“It’s a plan that we’ve had for quite some time, to showcase a bit more of Portuguese culture and gastronomy in Macau. When Pedro contacted me to be part of the Three Sardines family, I was very happy to join,” adds André, who was working in a fine dining restaurant in Macau at the time.
The trio only opened the restaurant around three months ago, and so far, the concept seems to be proving very popular.
“It’s been a hell of a ride,” says André. “We expected this would be good, but it was a shock to see it become so successful so quickly. We’ve received a lot of positive feedback. Many people can’t travel to Portugal at the moment, so they come here and they feel at home.”
“In the beginning I was a little bit concerned about how customers might react,” notes Pedro. “Even the Portuguese, because they like to have very big servings, and this is Petiscos… but I think they miss some of the dishes so much, they never complain!” he laughs.
The restaurant is a very cozy space, only seating around 30 people, and the chefs recommend booking at least one week in advance.
“We have been completely full since day one, and everyday we have walk-ins that we have to turn away,” Pedro comments.
Apart from the delicious food, another factor that certainly adds to the restaurant’s appeal is the amazing decorations. Everywhere you look, on every space of the walls and ceiling, are an eye-popping array of antique items, all collected in Portugal and shipped over.
Old fishing nets are suspended from the ceilings, metal film canisters line the staircase, a collection of Singer sewing machines are displayed on one wall, some ammunition boxes lie on the floor, a bicycle is suspended from the mezzanine balcony, and a big air pump from a metal works factory sits above the main doorway.
There is even a set of wooden seats from an old theatre and a row of business class seats from a 1970’s Portuguese airline. And if you pay attention you may notice that the bar stools are made from the seats of old farm tractors.
“Everything comes from Portugal,” says Pedro, “Only the large industrial fan comes from the US, and the olive tree suspended from the ceiling and hanging about the tables was bought on Taobao.”
Adding to the ambience is a selection of old school Portuguese music on vinyl.
“We decided that music had to be one of the things that identified Three Sardines, and we tried to go to what our parents listened to. Everyone feels very nostalgic when they hear the music here,” notes André.
All in all, it seems like these three innovative sardines have come up with a dining concept that Macau people are hungry for.
“I think Macau needs a refresh in what we’re doing in terms of F&B, so we’re trying to put a bit more life into it,” says André. “Normally as a chef, you go home pretty tired and down, but every night, the three of us leave here with huge smiles on our faces. The feedback from our customers is amazing, and we’re enjoying what we do.
Three Sardines
Address:34 Rua de São Roque, Macao
Tel: +853 63633328
Opening:17:00 – 23:00
close Tuesdays
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