The inspiration of numerous Romanticists, the origin of the Rhine River is akin to Richard Wagner’s four-opera cycle Der Ring des Nibelungen. Born out of earthquakes and volcanic eruptions of a biblical scale, the complete rock cycle, from igneous (granite), sedimentary (sandstone, clay, limestone), to metamorphic (slate), can be found along the course of the 1,233km-long river, hence the highly versatile styles of Riesling.
For three generations, the Ratzenberger family has been running the VDP estate, whose wine production history can be traced back to 1647. At 15 hectares, their four prized vineyards – Bacharacher Posten, Bacharacher Wolfshöhle, Bacharacher Kloster Fürstental, and Steeger St Jost – produce 12 to 14 wines annually, totalling 120,000 bottles.
The family’s estate is in the southernmost part of Mittelrhein, Bacharach, the regional wine capital, and four out of six VDP member-estates of Mittelrhein are also located here.
Proprietor-vintner Jochen Ratzenberger is well-versed in local history and has many interesting stories about the region: “Victor Hugo found Bacharach so charming that he famously described it as ‘one of the most mystic towns’. And so worthy were Mittelrhein wines, George Washington had them served in state receptions across the Atlantic.”
First mentioned in the early 11th century, Bacharach began to flourish in the 12th century, with wine production, wine shipping, timber trade (essential for barrel-making), and coin minting.
“With a population of 2,500 since time immemorial, Bacharach in the Middle Ages was as important as Frankfurt, only more powerful economically,” adds Ratzenberger.
The region is renowned for its premium quality slates, known as Kauber Schichten. The slates can be found in many vineyards, some of them as steep as 70 degrees, imparting a distinctly mineral character to the wines.
Großes Gewächs (“GG”) is equivalent to Premier Grand Cru
Große Lage (“GL”) is equivalent to Grand Cru
2011 Ratzenberger Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett
Essentially a cuvée from all four of Ratzenberger’s vineyards, this feinherb Riesling is bright lemon in colour with lime hues. Its fragrant nose is packed with delicate lime, white peach, and pear, topped by stony minerality and hints of acacia. Laden with apricot, honeydew melon, grapefruit, and sultana, the palate is juicy and lively. Melodic fruit flavours, refreshing minerality, and ample acidity are rendered even more jovial by the slightly petillant style.
2006 Bacharacher Wolfshöhle Riesling Großes Gewächs
From the Große Lage vineyard of Bacharacher Wolfshöhle, the berries at harvest were so ripe that this flagship dry Riesling is at 14% ABV, somewhat uncommon in Germany. Light gold in colour with lemony glow, its intense nose is full of melon, fruits confits, and honey, augmented by hints of rose. On the palate, concentrated flavours of waxy lemon, peach, grapefruit, and passion fruit offer extraordinary depth and length, with cleansing minerality and light smokiness. Structure and balance are sublime, and so is ageworthiness.
2009 Ratzenberger Spätburgunder Spätlese
Harvested at optimum ripeness from Kloster Fürstental, this is an exemplary German Pinot Noir capable of taking on Côte de Beaune or Côte de Nuits. Deep ruby in colour with purple-garnet rim, its nose is extremely delicate and complex: aromatic and faintly sweet, notes of blackberry, blackcurrant, and black cherry are flirtatious, coming and going with alluring sous bois, violet, and oaky vanilla. On the palate, delicate and exquisite red cherry, cranberry, and blueberry are laden on velvety tannin, with a touch of gaminess and smokiness. Rich and mellow, supple and ethereal, this is Mozart’s Eine kleine Nachtmusik of a Pinot Noir.
CONTACTS
Jochen Ratzenberger, Mr
Weingut Ratzenberger
www.weingut-ratzenberger.de/
T: +49 (0) 6743 1337
A: Blücherstraße 167, 55422 Bacharach, Germany
Martin Palmer, Mr
Thomas Palmer Fine German Wines
Exclusive Distributor in Macao & Hong Kong
www.finegermanwines.hk/
T: +852 9137 1296
