Ever since its inception in 2009, Le French GourMay (“LFGM”), organised by Ubifrance, has been introducing French wine and gastronomy to this region. Each year, LFGM features a wine region of France, and the protagonist this year is the mighty Vallée du Rhône.
Located in southeastern France along the Rhône from Lyon to Bouches-du-Rhône on the Mediterranean coast, vines were first planted here by the Greeks in the classical period.
The second largest wine region in France by both area and production, Rhône possesses an impressive array of terroirs, hence its multifarious wine styles – red, white, rosé, sparkling and sweet. At the risk of simplification, the prestigious Northern Rhône sets the benchmark for Syrah and Viognier, whereas the much larger Southern Rhône employs an intriguingly long list of grape varieties.
Recently, Macau CLOSER had the opportunity to speak with Mr Julien Peros, Managing Director of Rhône Wines Ltd, the only distributor in this region specialising exclusively in Rhône gems.
Can you tell us about your life experience and story with the Rhône region and its wines?
I was born and raised in Southern Rhône, so wines from there have always been on our table accompanying every meal. My grandfather was a big fan of candid, if uncomplicated, Côtes-du-Rhône, which was the first red wine I tasted in my life. As a teenager, I used to help during harvests in Vacqueyras and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It was Rhône wines that trained my palate.
As a devotee of Rhône wines, what qualities do you particularly look for?
Wines with character evoking emotions are very much preferable to those commercial, even if technically perfect, ones. Specifically, organic and biodynamic viticulture, low yields, manual harvest and natural yeast are preferred to over-extracted and heavily oaked fruit bombs.
Can you tell us more about organic winemaking in Rhône?
Producers realize that taking care of the environment is conducive to wine quality, for example without using chemicals, vine roots grow deeper to extract water and minerals, hence becoming more flavoursome. It is like human beings – one who eats junk food cannot be healthy. Thankfully, it is relatively easy to work organically in Rhône thanks to its dry and windy climate, which limits humidity and diseases.
How do you see the future of Rhône wines in this region?
I believe white Rhônes are much underrated. Thanks to Rhône’s excellent price-quality ratio, I am upbeat about their prospects in this region.
Domaine Fayolle Crozes-Hermitage Blanc Sens 2012
Sourced from average 40-year-old vines yielding ca. 40hl/ha, this blend of 60% Marsanne and 40% Roussanne was cool-fermented. Crystal-clear, lemon-lime with pastel golden reflex, the pristine nose reveals calamansi, pomelo, apricot, guava, ume and parsley, decorated by mango blossom. Supported by energetic acidity, the serene palate supplies lime peel, yuzu, green apple, greengage, peach and lemongrass, infused with Shoumei white tea. Medium-bodied at 13.5%, the tantalising entry continues through a spicy mid-palate, leading to a nutty finish. It is drinking beautifully now.
Domaine Bernard Gripa Saint-Joseph 2011
Sourced from vines grown on granite soil, this single varietal Syrah from Northern Rhône was matured in barrels for 12 months. Inky garnet with luminous carmine-Tyrian purple rim, the profuse nose radiates prune, dried blackberry, crème de cassis, clove, sous bois and toasted oak, embellished by violet. Sustained by juicy acidity and tasting tannins, the scented palate provides damson, dried bilberry, allspice, hazelnut, wild mushroom and sandalwood, enriched by Lapsang Souchong black tea. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the succulent entry evolves into a spiced mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish. Drinking immensely well already, mid-term cellaring is an option.
Domaine Roucas Toumba Vacqueyras la Grande Terre 2011
Dark garnet with carmine-dark red rim, the aromatic nose presents dried blackberry, dried plum, liquorice, nutmeg, dark chocolate and coffea arabica, elaborated with oaky smoke. Possessing rounded acidity and chunky tannins, the copious palate delivers dried cherry, dried prune, eucalyptus, cinnamon, sandalwood and game, supplemented by Gunpowder tea. This monumental, full-bodied Southern Rhône blend stands at 14.5%. The lively entry transforms into a concentrated mid-palate, leading to a peppery finish. It is still a few years away from hitting top gear.
Domaine la Bouïssière Gigondas la Font de Tonin 2010
Reddish black with maroon-rosewood rim, the perfumed nose exudes black cherry, damson, vanilla pod, Christmas spice, wild mushroom and tobacco leaf, garnished with lily. Boasting vibrant acidity and ripe tannins, the bounteous palate offers black olive, dried raspberry, cassis jam, allspice, Herbes de Provence, mocha coffee and cedarwood. Bottled unfiltered, this full-bodied Southern Rhône blend stands at 15%. The expressive entry carries onto a fleshy mid-palate, leading to a savoury finish. To realise its full potential, short-term cellaring is necessary.
CONTACT Rhône Wines Ltd | Facebook Rhône Wines Ltd | [email protected] | T: +852 3007 1055
CONTACT Ubifrance | www.ubifrance.fr/chine | [email protected] | T: +852 3752 9178