Bordering France in the west and Switzerland in the north, Piemonte (Piedmont) is sandwiched between the Alps and the Ligurian Apennine. The ethos of this mountainous region is encapsulated by not only its unmistakably alpine flag with a white cross on a red field, but also its very name – Piemonte literally means “at the foot of the mountains”.
Piemonte has been revered for its fine wine since Roman times, when it was the Roman province of Gallia Cisalpina (literally: Gaul hither side of the Alps), later merged into the imperial province of Italia. During the Middle Ages, it was ruled by the illustrious House of Savoy, one of the most ancient royal houses still in existence today.
When the Revolutions of 1848 swept across the entire European continent, the Italian episode was triggered by wine. The Austrian Empire imposed hefty tariffs on Piedmontese wine exports, which severely affected the livelihood of the local people. Consequently, the Piedmontese were amongst the first to revolt against the Austrian Empire all the way through the Risorgimento, and the House of Savoy would go on to produce all four monarchs of the unified Kingdom of Italy from 1861 to 1946 – Vittorio Emanuele II, Umberto I, Vittorio Emanuele III and Umberto II.
long with Veneto and Toscana (Tuscany), Piemonte is widely regarded as one of the three leading wine regions of Italy. A relatively small region covering some 25,400km2, Piemonte is responsible for just 7 percent of the country’s total wine production, yet it possesses the largest number – 17 – of DOCGs (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) amongst all wine regions in Italy, plus some 42 DOCs (Denominazione di Origine Controllata). Not for nothing is Piemonte frequently compared to Bourgogne (Burgundy). Whereas Italian wines – especially reds – are often blends, Piemonte specialises in terroir-expressive single-varietal wines made with Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto (all red), as well as Arneis, Cortese, Moscato and Roero (all white).
At the Hong Kong International Wine and Spirits Fair, CLOSER had the pleasure of meeting Orlando Pecchenino, proprietor-winemaker of Azienda Agricola Pecchenino, one of the leading estates from the region.
Can you tell us more about your family estate?
Our estate was established in the 18th century, and it has remained family-owned ever since. For the mid-20th century, my grandfather Attilio was in charge. In the 1970s, my father Marino took over, and handed over to my brother Attilio and myself in 1987. During the said period, the size of our vineyards expanded from a mere 8ha to 25ha today.
Your wines have received critical acclaim and numerous prizes. How have you achieved this?
We insist on organic viticulture, that is herbicides, insecticides and pesticides are strictly forbidden. We do much backbreaking work in the vineyards to ensure that the grapes are at their healthiest and most mature come harvest season. We use natural, native yeasts for fermentation. All this helps preserve the unique characteristics of the grapes, as influenced by their respective terroirs.
The Piedmontese Trinity
Nebbiolo: literally meaning “fog”, the late-ripening Nebbiolo is as capricious and mercurial as Pinot Noir. With profound tannins, aromas and acidity, it often takes years, if not decades, for the finest Nebbiolo wines, notably Barolo and Barbaresco, to mature.
Barbera: ripening before Nebbiolo, Barbera is moderate in both acidity and tannins, with a particular affinity for oak, indeed French barriques, capable of producing bold and fleshy wines for short- to mid-term enjoyment.
Dolcetto: literally meaning “little sweet one”, the early ripening Dolcetto is relatively low in both acidity and tannins but naturally fruity and fragrant, making irresistible drinking in its youth.
Pecchenino Dogliani San Luigi 2014
Macerated for 10 days and matured in stainless steel for 12 months. Rich garnet with crimson-Tyrian purple rim, the fragrant nose offers blackberry, cranberry, iris and fragrant minerals. With lively acidity, juicy tannins and underlying minerality, the joyous palate delivers mulberry, morello cherry, rose tisane and fresh earth. Medium-bodied at 13%, the tutti-frutti entry carries onto an invigorating mid-palate, leading to a fresh finish.
Pecchenino Dogliani Superiore Sirì d’Jermu 2013
Macerated for 15 days and matured in large oak barrels for 12 months. Bright garnet with carnelian-scarlet rim, the adorable nose presents blueberry, rosehip, bouquet garni, sandalwood and violet. With sprightly acidity, polished tannins and clean minerality, the exuberant palate furnishes redcurrant, red cherry, anise, almond and tobacco leaf. Medium-full bodied at 14%, the succulent entry continues through a vibrant mid-palate, leading to a redolent finish.
Pecchenino Babera d’Alba Quass 2012
Macerated for 15 days, matured in barriques and large oak barrels for 12 months. Deep garnet with carmine-rosewood rim, the brooding nose provides blackberry, black cherry, clove, bark and geranium. With energetic acidity, ripe tannins and clear minerality, the intense palate supplies mulberry, plum, caffè mocha, sous bois and cherry blossom. Full-bodied at 14.5%, the fleshy entry persists through a potent mid-palate, leading to a tasty finish.
Pecchenino Barolo San Giuseppe 2011
Macerated for 20 days and matured in large oak barrels for 24 months. Luminous ruby with cardinal-cerise rim, the alluring nose effuses cranberry, raspberry, liquorice, black truffle, balsam and peony. With animated acidity, emphatic tannins and chiselled minerality, the seductive palate emanates redcurrant, morello cherry, grilled herbs, Oolong tea, macchia and rose petal. Medium-full bodied at 14.5%, the serene entry evolves into a melodious mid-palate, leading to an indelible finish.
