The Pinnacle of Elegance

Taking vintage, winemaking and cellaring out of the equation, terroir is what causes wines made of the same variety or blend to embody different styles. At the risk of generalisation, the stylistic spectrum seems to have power and structure at one end, and elegance and finesse at the other. Classic examples include Riesling (Rheingau vs Mosel), Pinot Noir (Gevrey-Chambertin vs Chambolle-Musigny; Pommard vs Volnay), Bordeaux blend (Pauillac v Margaux) and Nebbiolo (Barolo v Barbaresco). In noble sweet Bordeaux, it is Sauternes vs Barsac.

 

From the appellation that exemplifies delicacy, the Premier Grand Cru estate of Climens is synonymous with elegance nonpareil, hence its epithet the Lord of Barsac. The name of this legendary estate first appeared in a legal document dating back to 1547, wherein Girault Roborel, a royal advocate, was shown to have inherited land. Climens and Roborel would later merge to become one name, and the Roborel de Climens family remained the proud owner of the estate until the 19th century.

 

Located in southern Barsac, Château Climens is an anomaly and rarity by Bordelais standards in various regards. First, the estate has only been owned by five families. Second, lying on the highest point in Barsac – ca. 20m above sea level – with ferrous clay sand on fissured starfish limestone subsoil, its vineyard forms a continuous single plot covering 30ha, practically unchanged through the centuries. Third, only one variety – Sémillon – is planted in the vineyard, and Château Climens is one of the very few estates to produce single-varietal noble sweet Bordeaux. Adding to its intrigue and mystique, “Climens” actually means “unfertile land” in the local dialect, but it is from this apparently poor plot that the purest nectar of Bordeaux comes.

 

Current owner and director Bérénice Lurton is the 4th generation of a winemaking dynasty. Her father, the renowned vigneron Lucien Lurton, was credited with reversing the fortunes of many a Bordeaux estate. Already owning a few Grand Cru estates, he acquired Château Climens in 1971, when sweet Bordeaux was in crisis. Bérénice Lurton took over in 1992, and converted the entire vineyard to biodynamic viticulture in 2010.

 

Subsequent to manual harvest and rigorous selection, botrytised berries – produced by vines averaging 35 years – are barrel-fermented without cultured yeasts and then matured in barriques (35%-45% new) for 20-24 months. With yield as low as 7hl/ha for the grand vin, only 25,000-30,000 bottles are produced each year. Standards are so high that certain lesser vintages are simply omitted, as in 1984, 1987, 1992 and 1993, bringing tears to the eyes of many loyal followers.

 

 

 

 

Named after the trees bordering the estate signifying energy and revival, the second vin of Château Climens is remarkably versatile, whether as an aperitif or dessert wine. Bright sunglow with shimmering aureolin reflex, the nose is captivating and expressive, offering apricot, nectarine, custard apple, crystallised mandarin and sweet ginger, elaborated with elderflower. Braced by lively acidity and palpable minerality, the palate is vibrant and joyous, delivering bergamot, yuzu, jackfruit and dried peach, intertwined with marzipan and crème brûlée. Supply textured and medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the exotic entry carries onto a tropical mid-palate, leading to a spiced finish.

 

 

 

Lucid jonquil with gleaming golden reflex, the nose is beguiling and perfumed, radiating calamansi, Japanese pear, peach, passion fruit and meringue, adorned with honeysuckle. Buttressed by animated acidity and articulate minerality, the palate is exquisite and stylish, oozing longan, mirabelle, melon and crystallised kumquat, interwoven with crème Chantilly and toffee.  Viscously textured and full-bodied at 13.5%, the ethereal entry persists through a nuanced mid-palate, leading to an endearing finish. For those who are willing to wait until 2050, patience will be generously rewarded.

 

 

 

Glowing amber with luminous golden reflex, the nose is evocative and graceful, emanating Korla pear, dried peach, dried longan, vanilla spice, butterscotch and crème brûlée, embellished by jasmine. Underpinned by spirited acidity and pristine minerality, the palate is developed and redolent, effusing nectarine, lychee and dried mango, interlaced with gingerbread, toffee, osmanthus sweet and Longjing green tea. Unctuously textured and full-bodied at 13.5%, the suave entry evolves into a sophisticated mid-palate, leading to a moving finish. With developing wine diamonds, this adorable wine – to be cellared and savoured through 2050 – adds another visual dimension – “meteor in a bottle”.

 

 

 

www.chateau-climens.fr

+33 (0)5 56 27 15 33

Château Climens, 33720 Barsac, France