“Men are like wine – some turn to vinegar, but the best improve with age.”
Pope Saint John XXIII (1881-1963)
As perennial plants, the grapevine genus (vitis) and the common grapevine species (vitis vinifera) are capable of growing for well over a century. Pre-phylloxera vines (truly indigenous to the Old World and never grafted onto American rootstock) planted before the mid-19th century still exist in tiny quantities, and the oldest vine is reportedly more than 400 years old, still yielding grapes with which to make wine in Maribor, Slovenia.
If age brings wisdom to man and poise to wine, it also endows quality upon vines. Generally speaking, once a vine reaches 20 years of age, its roots will have drilled deeper into the soil, whereas its yield begins to decrease over time, resulting in more concentrated and flavourful berries with enhanced minerality and nuance.
Although existing in practically all wine-producing countries, the term “old vine” is rarely given a legal definition. Upward of 30 or 40 years of age is generally considered “old”, but the threshold is sometimes lowered to 20 in the New World. In regions where vineyards carry with them hefty price tags such as Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux, producers tend to regularly replace old vines with new ones to maintain productivity – a delicate balance between quality and profitability.
It is therefore particularly remarkable and admirable when someone in Gevrey-Chambertin – the king of mighty Côte-de-Nuits – steadfastly adheres to old vines in viticulture, sparing no effort and cost in the winemaking process. The proprietor-winemaker in question is Pierre Naigeon, a candid and no-nonsense man who does not mince his words, nor mix his wines.
With just under 12ha of vineyard under his name, his namesake Domaine Pierre Naigeon boasts four grands crus (Corton, Bonnes-Mares,Charmes-Chambertin and Mazy-Chambertin), eight premiers crus (Chassagne-Montrachet, Gevrey-Chambertin and Morey-Saint-Denis) and a variety of outstanding villages (Chambolle-Musigny, Puligny-Montrachet and Vosne-Romanée). Apart from supplying to various Michelin-starred restaurants in France, most of his wines are exported across Europe, Asia, Australia and Canada.
Can you tell us about your winemaking background?
I am the fifth generation of the winemaking Naigeon family. We have been in Gevrey-Chambertin since the 1700s, initially as coopers and farmers. In the late 19th century, the phylloxera plague devastated not only the wine industry, but also the cooperage industry. Failing to sell all our barrels, we filled the unsold ones with our own wine, thereby unintentionally creating a family tradition.
Can you share with us your winemaking philosophy?
We are meticulous and take painstaking care during the entire process. We practise sustainable viticulture in the vineyards, meaning no herbicides, insecticides or synthetic agents. All grapes are manually harvested with care and rigorously sorted. Fermentation by natural yeast is preceded by cold-soaking and succeeded by maceration. Racking is by gravity in barrels without using pumps. Wines maturing in barrels are topped up weekly to compensate for ullage and finally bottled without fining or filtering.
Domaine Pierre Naigeon Puligny-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes 2013
Bright citrine with light sunglow reflex, the nose is complex and fragrant, offering bergamot, apricot, vanilla pod, wet stone and tulip. Supported by generous acidity and clear minerality, the palate is focused and sophisticated, delivering lemon, pear, bouquet garni, Longjing tea and rock salt. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the urbane entry transforms into a vivacious mid-palate, leading to a lengthy finish. Sourced from 50+ year old vines, merely 852 bottles produced. A classy Puligny-Montrachet.
Domaine Pierre Naigeon Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Embrazées Vieilles Vignes 2008
Brilliant amber with luminous golden reflex, the nose is aromatic and nuanced, effusing apricot, oaky vanilla, walnut shell, butterscotch and acacia. Anchored by bounteous acidity and pristine minerality, the palate is resplendent and voluptuous, providing nectarine, pistachio, fleur de sel butter, crème Chantilly and chamomile. Full-bodied at 13.5%, the discreet entry evolves into a multifarious mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish. Sourced from 50+ year old vines, merely 280 bottles produced. A hedonistic Chassagne-Montrachet.
Domaine Pierre Naigeon Vosne-Romanée Maizières Basses Vieilles Vignes 2013
Rich ruby with shimmering cardinal-crimson rim, the nose is haunting and scented, emanating cassis, red cherry, bourbon vanilla, white truffle, limestone and iris. Braced by animated acidity, silky tannins and accurate minerality, the palate is harmonious and refined, supplying redcurrant, strawberry, fragrant oak, porcini mushroom, crushed rock and violet. Medium-bodied at 13%, the captivating entry continues through a melodious mid-palate, leading to an endearing finish. Sourced from 50+ year old vines, merely 816 bottles produced. An irresistible Vosne-Romanée.
Domaine Pierre Naigeon Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Les Chaffots Vieilles Vignes 2013
Intense ruby with gleaming carnelian-Tyrian purple rim, the nose is ethereal and seductive, furnishing cranberry, redcurrant, Lady Grey tea, fur, fine chalk and lavender. Underpinned by spirited acidity, velvety tannins and articulate minerality, the palate is enchanting and vibrant, presenting raspberry, strawberry, Keemun tea, chanterelle, crushed rock and rose petal. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the subtle entry persists through a structured mid-palate, leading to a composed finish. Sourced from 60+ year old vines, merely 278 bottles produced. A majestic Morey-Saint-Denis for which patience is a virtue.