Wine in Alsace is white, no doubt about it: whites make up 90 percent of the production and clearly the overriding reputation of the place －－- a standing fully embraced by the official collective gathering of local winemakers, the CIVA, that advertises wines from Alsace as “Les Grands Blancs”, literally “the great whites”.
Alsace is home to 53 AOCs: the generic Alsace born in 1962; the fast-rising Crémant d’Alsace created in 1976; and the 51 superb “Alsace Grands Crus” established in three phases since 1975.
The region is also well known for its white grape varieties (Riesling, Sylvaner and Gewürztraminer) and localities, especially those of its Grands Crus, whose names are a reminder of the turbulent history of this north-east corner of France and its proximity to German cultural heritage.
Indeed, Alsace is truly unique, and not only because the elongated shoulderless bottles in which all the still wines are by law encapsulated, bear the name “flûtes d’Alsace”. Vineyards are planted on the foothills of the Vosges, and benefit from good sun exposure and moderate yearly rainfall, roughly facing east towards the Rhine valley, although properties southward-oriented along the range are reputed to be the best.
The soils are very old and diverse, with a lot of marl and limestone, but also schist and volcanic rocks. The grape varieties typical of Alsace produce fresh, fruity, yet dry pale yellow liquor.
Although the naturally sweet Vendanges Tardives and Sélection de Grains Nobles derived exclusively from Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Muscat are officially recognized, they represent less than one percent of the total production – the same proportion of red wine made solely from Pinot Noir, while Grands Crus only amount to four percent. Interestingly, Pinot Gris has been on the rise in the past few years; a grape variety less associated with that region, but nonetheless imbued with a unique full-bodied and yet refreshing interpretation here.
Alsace is going to be the guest of honor at this year’s Le French GourMay, the gastronomic feast associated with the French May celebrations taking place in Hong Kong and Macau. CLOSER had the opportunity to meet with one of the participating winemakers beforehand, Jean-Marie Bechtold, during an East-meets-West pairing dinner at Vida Rica restaurant at Mandarin Oriental, Macau.
Bechtold has a determined insistence on making “mineral” and even “salty” wines, as this is “what makes you salivate,” he says. He also admits that he is “almost done with sweet wines”. As the fourth generation of winemakers on his 12-hectare estate, he legitimately states that he is only interested in making “vins de terroir”, with yields averaging in the low 40hl/ha.
Alsace used to be high-production oriented, but moving to organic wine some 12 years ago and now tending towards biodynamics, have been important steps in restoring harmony with the terroir.
“We are only ephemeral tenants on the planet and some of my vines grow on Muschelkalk, 230 million-year-old soils,” says Bechtold.
The move did create some tensions, even within the family, but now there is no turning back. Today, 15 percent of winemakers in Alsace make their wines organically – as opposed to eight percent on average in France – and Jean-Marie is pretty straightforward about his position:
“Talented people move to organic agriculture, and what makes us really different is our collaborative outlook. We share everything, failures and achievements alike, and the concept of trade secrets thus become meaningless.”
A philosophy of work and nature wrapped up in the imperative of open sourcing!
Bechtold Riesling Sussenberg, AOC Alsace, 2010
Pretty light gold colour. Nose of red apple, citrus and wet stones with a touch of floral. On the palate, the wine is very dry (residual sugar of 6g/liter), elegant and delicately fruity, with notes of quince. It is mineral and intense, with a long and elegant finish, yet well balanced with hints of acidity and fruitiness. On this evening, it was served with a tuna tartare on squid ink fluffy crispy rice, yellow tail carpaccio with yuzu foam, and whelks in seawater jelly. Great harmony and freshness mirroring the delicate yuzu fragrance.
Bechtold Pinot Gris, AOC Grand Cru Engelberg, 2012
Golden yellow in colour, with a nose of baked apple, caramel and vanilla. Slightly fatty, distinctively velvety, and yet fresh and dry (residual sugar of 5g/l). Very long finish, with elegant notes of toffee thanks to its lengthy aging in old oak barrels – quite unusual in this part of France. A Grand Cru at its best. At Vida Rica, it was served with a roasted quail with a Carabinero shrimp spring roll, barley risotto and lemongrass shrimp sauce. A perfect balance with the rather acidic shrimp taste and earthy quail. The more “common” Pinot Gris Cuvée Joseph was initially served with foie gras – a surprisingly convincing pairing!
Bechtold Gewurztraminer Obere Hund, AOC Alsace, 2011
Light and subtle in the beginning, then developing aromas of pepper and pear syrup, lemon, spice, and typical tropical fruits (lychee), the wine then gains in intensity, again with notes of tropical fruits and spices. Fresh, floral and elegant in the finish. This evening served with a slow-cooked Garoupa with couscous and pumpkin, tomato gel, candied celery and green Thai curry – spice on spice!
Bechtold Pinot Noir ‘Obere Hund’, AOC Alsace, 2012
Surprisingly ruby red in colour, this wine, aged in large oak barrels after fermentation, offers dry cherries, tart red fruit and blackberry on the nose. On the palate, straightforward cherries, with a smokiness derived from the iron-rich Muschelkalk soil on which these vines grow. Long and delicate finish. The chefs at Vida Rica served it with a crispy duck breast with duck rice wrapped in lotus leaf, served with sour cherry and blackberry sauce. Akin to a fruit farandole!
Bechtold Silberberg Pinot Gris, AOC Alsace, Sélection de grains nobles, 500ml, 2009
Dark gold liquorish wine, with notes of brioche, raisins and possibly musk. Voluptuous in the mouth (residual sugar of 182g/liter) and still charged with a fine minerality. Served with a dessert of pineapple mille-feuille with ginger ice cream – delightful combination of contrasting favours!
The wines can be ordered (and delivered to Macau) from Ada Leung, Cottage Vineyards ([email protected])
