As Chinese consumers develop more sophisticated preferences for wine, old world producers are beginning to present a more varied range of products made from less well known grape varieties, to try to broaden their appeal and offer something a little different.
“Our best market is China, for the quantity but also for quality, and we are seeing more and more interest in different wines,” comments Luca Garelli, Export Sales Manager for Tenute d’Italia, the commercial branch of Morini Wines, an historical Italian company specialising in agronomic and enological consultancy.
Luca has been coming to Macau to represent the wines of a number of different Italian producers for the past eight years, and has witnessed the growing maturity of the China market.
“Everytime I come here something changes. Europe changes slowly, but here things are more rapid. Nowadays customers are not as concerned about the brand or label, but are becoming more interested in the balance between quality and price,” he observes.
“International grape varieties are still most popular because people know them, and they also pair well with Chinese food, like Merlot and Shiraz, which have very soft tannins and full body. But now people are open to new wines also, for example Primitivo and Sangiovese, and some people are looking for something completely new.”
With customers looking for new flavours, and many high-end restaurants trying to set themselves apart from the competition, there is a pressure for wine makers to offer something special, and rarer grape varieties and organic wines are just some of the ways they meet this demand.
“One of our estates has been organic for 26 years and just last year became biodynamic. With this grape we are creating a new brand, Canale dei Molini (Canal of the Mills), because this estate is alongside a very ancient mill,” says Luca.
“We discovered a very ancient map in the library of our city, drawn by Leonardo Da Vinci in 1502, and also documents that show that in Roman times this channel existed. The water was used for two reasons, one to irrigate the crops, and two, to transport the wine to the sea.
“And in October last year, we also started a new collaboration with a very small winery near Mt Etna in Sicily. The wine maker still works the land by hand, and uses a very ancient method of production, and the wine is fantastic.”
Organic farming techniques not only produce a better quality of grape and wine, but of course are healthy for all involved.
“The demand for organic wine is definitely increasing, and for us it’s better too. The process is challenging, you must take more care in the vineyard, but it’s better for the environment and better for the health of the workers. Now we see in the vineyard butterflies, deer, fox… when all the environment is better, you see the difference”.
On this trip to Macau, Luca brought a range of different wines, which he presented at an evening tasting session, held at the recently opened FW Rio Grill & Seafood Market at Macau Fisherman’s Wharf. In particular, he highlighted a number of labels from the company’s Tenuta del Principe project.
Born in Romagna, this project initially focused primarily on the two best grape varieties in the region: Albana – the first Italian white grape to receive a D.O.C.G. classification – and Sangiovese, presented in its most prestigious version, Romagna D.O.C. Superiore Riserva.
Later, the team added the Barolo variety, perhaps one of the most famous Italian varieties, followed recently by another pillar of Italian winemaking, the Tuscan Sangiovese.
“The Sintria label, made from Albana grapes is a very full bodied wine, late harvested and aged in oak, with a very particular and complex taste,” explains Luca.
Next on our journey is Sereso, made from the King of Romagnol viticulture, the Sangiovese grape, offering a maximum expression in terms of quality and aromatic complexity.
“The grapes come from a single vineyard, and are aged for three years in French oak, which is quite a long time for a Sangiovese, which is normally aged for only one year. It has very dark colours and a long finish, also unusual for a Sangiovese, because the quantity of grapes is very low, so always very concentrated, and we do a very long maturation with the skin. This is definitely one of our biggest selling wines.”
From Tuscany, we try the Mensale label, “also aged in large oak barrels, but for just one year, so a different style, more fruity, more elegant, less powerful.”
And finally, Larone, “a late harvest–based Sangiovese, blended with two indigenous grapes Malbo Gentile (25%) and Centesimino (15%). These are not widely known varieties, but they give a very particular taste, and a nice power.”
Another challenge for small wine producers in Italy, is being able to meet the growing demand in the China market.
“Our Japanese clients can be very cautious about decision making, and can sometimes take years to place an order,” Luca says, “But the Chinese can arrive in your office and say ‘we need a container for tomorrow!’” he laughs.
“Italy is a small country and the wineries are also very small. The family wineries in Italy don’t have the expertise, time or resources to market their wines internationally. Particulary for Italian companies, the future is working together, its the only way.”
To order, contact
Savio Group Ltd
T:+853 2875 3264
www.saviogp.com