The no nonsense art of winemaking

For anyone remotely interested in the art of fermenting grapes, it is always a privilege to encounter a winemaker, and meeting with Peter Bright, the so-called Australian “flying winemaker” is no exception.

 

Passion, knowledge and experience drive the conversation, and captivating stories make the exchange linger way past the original hour-long interview.

 

n Macau for the fourth time, Peter was in town recently at Gosto Portuguese restaurant at Galaxy Macau, to promote his latest creations with Terra d’Alter, a Portuguese venture based in Alto Alentejo that he created back in 2004 together with José Roquette and António Borges.

 

Peter’s story with Portugal goes back a long way. He first set foot on the western side of the Iberian Peninsula in July 1974, a few months after the Carnation Revolution, while on a discovery tour to compliment his enology training. What brought Peter to Portugal in the first place was curiosity, a curiosity to explore one of the most diverse places for grape varieties on the planet. 

 

After a brief spell back in Australia to finish his diploma and perfect his education with real-life experience, Peter made Portugal his home in the early 1980s and embarked on a journey, from Setubal to Douro, Tejo and finally Alentejo, that would see him participate very intimately in the wine (of quality) revolution that swayed Portugal in the following decades.

 

For Peter, even more important than terroir, variety was always “the overriding thing”. 

 

“All the revolution in the consumption of wine in the last 30 years is based on grape variety because consumers can recognize grape varieties. They know the difference between the flavour of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc; they usually can’t explain why, but they can also tell the difference between a Chardonnay that comes from Burgundy or Chablis and another one that comes from Australia or Argentina,” he notes. 

 

Wine varieties are key to the quality of Terra d’Alter wines. Despite Peter’s initial intent to use almost exclusively indigenous varieties, he has also had to work with the vines that were originally growing on the close to 90 hectares of land his company tends to, to create a blend that would make the most sophisticated, balanced and structured wines. 

 

If the Terra d’Alter entry range, as well as Reserva duo, somehow follow the classic blends of Alentejo, both in red and white, the premium wines produced by Peter offer quite unusual combinations for Portugal. The Telhas red is mainly made of Syrah, whereas the Telhas white is exclusively composed of Viognier, and the top range Outeiro combines on par Syrah and the infrequent Petit Verdot. 

 

Most of these grape varieties originate from France, and were present on the different soils of the property, predominantly made of granite, limestone or schist.  But a new project topping the premium range — already bottled and to be released in June — combines four traditional Portuguese grape varieties from a single vineyard. For sure, this will warrant another visit to Macau for Peter.

 

Ultimately, tradition, or should we say scientifically proven tradition, appears to be the other key to producing outstanding wines at Terra d’Alter. This is true for the approach to winegrowing, which is not organically certified but definitely on the low intervention side, with a core belief that vineyards are never a closed system and thus micro-flora is of utmost importance. 

 

And this is equally valid for the style of wines: clear, focused and nevertheless complex. Top range wines ferment without inoculation and all get some barrel ageing on lees, and there is no doubt that for Peter, the time spent in oak barrels — what he calls “a unique reactionary vessel” — is what really makes his wines come to life. 

 

 

 

 

Mono-varietal wine made of 100% Viognier and whose name refers to the terracotta tile (telhas in Portuguese) fragments that litter the site of a former roman villa. Handpicked fruit grown on the granitic soil of the Antes vineyard. Crushed and left with the skins for two days before fermentation in new oak barrels and aging on lees for 11 months. Extremely similar to the traditional methods of Condrieu (Northern Rhône Valley). Golden in color with a distinctive oily texture on the palate. Aromas of apricots, a hint of toasty vanilla and spices (Sichuan pepper and cloves). Very balanced with refreshing acidity despite the ripeness. Complex and lengthy. ‘Best White Wine of Portugal’ at Mundus Vini 2014 (Germany).

 

 

A blend of Trincadeira, Tinta Caiada and Aragonez. Grapes picked from old vineyards, fermented with wild ferments in small quantity (3 to 4,000 kg) and left with the skin for maximum extraction, bringing more tannins and structure. Aged on lees separately for two years at low temperature (15ºC) to smoothen rich tannins. Deep ruby color. Good balance between acidity and tannins, with a soft hedge. Notes of cassis with hints of tar, spiciness and vanilla. Reasonably long finish and remarkably easy to drink. Grand Gold Medal & Best Red Blend at Portuguese National Wine Competition 2014 and Gold Medal at Mundus Vini 2014 (Germany).

 

 

 

A blend of Siria 20%, Arinto 20%, Verdelho 20%, Gouveio 20%, Viognier 10% as well as Antão Vaz/Encruzado/Rabo de Ovelha 10%. Crushed with skin contact, fermented in oak barrels (40% old) and aged on lees for eight months. Pale straw in color and mouth filling, almost oily on the palate. Biscuity as a result of the oak ageing and contact with lees, with notes of exotic fruits and ripe pineapple. Rather short in length.

 

 

 

A blend of 95% Syrah and 5% Viognier from Antas vineyard. Extremely similar to the traditional methods of Côte-Rôtie (Northern Rhône Valley). Co-fermented with indigenous yeast in small open tanks with submerged cap. Fermentation finished in new American oak barrels with battonage followed by malolactic fermentation and 24 months maturation. Deep ruby color. Jammy nose with aromas of cherry, ground pepper, roast meat, chocolate, tobacco and tar. Hints of vanilla and cedar on a lengthy silky finish.

 

 

 

From the highest point of the Herdade da Boavista Vineyard in Alentejo, a blend of Syrah and Petit Verdot naturally co-fermented for five days. Fermentation finished in new American oak barrels with battonage followed by malolactic fermentation and 22 months of maturation. Dense ruby red color. Great intensity of flavors with red and black fruits, hints of cassis leaves as well as notes of spices and mocha. Well structured and balanced, showing great finesse. Lengthy and smooth on the finish. Should age beautifully.