So dynamic is the Spanish wine scene that a decade feels like a lifetime, and three is almost an eternity. Prior to Spain’s accession to the EU, wholesale changes were introduced to modernise the country’s various sectors, which have sowed the seeds of Spain’s spectacular wine renaissance since the last quarter of the 20th century
The first appellation to be promoted from DO (Denominación de Origen) to DOCa (Denominación de Origen Calificada) in 1991, Rioja has long been the undisputed jewel in the Spanish crown. It was not until 2003 that Priorato became only the second DOCa. Spanish DOCa is much rarer, and hence more prestigious, than Italian DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita).
In the same year, the Vino de Pago (alternatively Denominación de Pago) category was established. Unlike DOCa and DO, which apply to regions, Vino de Pago concerns estates or vineyards. There are currently 17 Vino de Pago appellations from four Autonomous Communities (Comunidades Autónomas; Spain’s first-level administrative regions): one in Aragón, four in Navarra, four in Valencia and eight in Castilia-La Mancha. Whether Vino de Pago represents the pinnacle of Spanish wine is an open-ended debate: on the one hand, it resembles a hybrid cru of the Bordeaux and Burgundy systems; on the other hand, it is a DO rather than DOCa, and the lack of Vino de Pago in Rioja and Priorato seems to suggest that DOCa remains superior.
If there is another DOCa in the coming decade, it would most likely be Ribera del Duero (literally: bank of the Duero). Situated in the upper streams of the Duero, which stretches just under 900km from central-northern Spain through northern Portugal to the Atlantic, Ribera del Duero benefits from high altitude (up to 900m above sea level), huge diurnal temperature variation, a myriad of microclimates and soil compositions ranging from chalk, limestone, marl with clayey, schistous and silty layers of sub-soil.
Ribera del Duero has been on a meteoric rise since the 1980s, spearheaded by such illustrious names as Vega Sicilia and Pingus, and growing from merely a score of bodegas (“bodega” originally denotes underground cellar, but now generally refers to winery) to over 200.
Tempranillo is to Ribera del Duero what Sangiovese is to Chianti. A terroir-expressive, complex and ageworthy red variety known for its particular affinity with French and American oak. Tempranillo must constitute at least 75 percent in any Ribera del Duero blend, while the remainder can be Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha Tinta (i.e. Grenache Noir), Malbec, Merlot and the white Albillo. The majority of Ribera del Duero wine is red, with a small portion of rosado (rosé) produced, but the DO does not provide for white wine. Similar to the regal Rioja, the aging for wine is specifically regulated and indicated.
Tempranillo
Literally “little early one”, Tempranillo is as Iberian as it gets. It is known variously as Tinto Fino / Tinto del País in Ribera de Duero, Cencibel in Valdepeñas, Ull de Llebre in Catalonia and Aragonês / Aragonez in Portugal. It is one of the few outstanding varieties that are early-ripening and delicious both in youth or aged.
Ageing the Spanish Way
Spain is unique in its painstaking attention to wine maturation (elaboración), taken care of by wine producers. It is often said, in the old days at least, that the wine is released only when it is ready to drink. Spanish wine has specific designations for ageing, depending on the duration of maturation.
Joven:
Little or none
Crianza:
At least two years (of which at least one must be in oak)
Reserva:
At least three years (of which at least one must be in oak)
Gran Reserva:
At least five years (of which at least two must be in oak)
Montecastro y Llanahermosa
Alconte Crianza 2011
A single-varietal Tempranillo matured for 14 months in French and American oak barrels. Dark garnet with carmine-purple rim, the aromatic nose offers cassis, mulberry, nutmeg, black pepper, tobacco and caffè espresso. With ebullient acidity and juicy tannins, the expressive palate delivers black cherry, damson, black olive, clove, cocoa and roasted almond. Medium-full bodied at 15%, the assertive entry carries onto a fleshy mid-palate, leading to a spicy finish.
Montecastro y Llanahermosa 2012
A single-varietal Tempranillo matured for 17 months in French and American oak barrels. Dark garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the potent nose presents black cherry, cassis, liquorice, sous bois, cigar and sandalwood. With vibrant acidity and ripe tannins, the saturated palate supplies bilberry, blackberry, nutmeg, tobacco leaf, coffea arabica and dark chocolate. Full-bodied at 15%, the supple entry continues through a spiced mid-palate, leading to a long finish.
Montecastro
y Llanahermosa 2009
A single-varietal Tempranillo matured for 17 months in French and American oak barrels. Dark garnet with carmine-rosewood, the venerable nose effuses Juniper berry, damson, cigar box, cedarwood, graphite and smoke. With generous acidity and meaty tannins, the ornate palate furnishes cassis, mulberry, black olive, allspice, game and charcoal. Full bodied at 14.5%, the rounded entry persists through a chiselled mid-palate, leading to an elongated finish.
Montecastro y Llanahermosa
la Roca 2009
A blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Garnacha Tinta matured for 20 months in French oak barrels. Dark garnet with maroon-purple rim, the scented nose emanates black cherry, kola nut, bay leaf, cocoa, tobacco and sandalwood. With rich acidity and bounteous tannins, the variegated palate provides blackberry, mulberry, black pepper, clove, caffè ristretto and graphite. Full-bodied at 14.5%, the poised entry evolves into a harmonious mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.
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