Mexico’s mix of cultures and landscapes ensure sensory experiences in abundance at every turn. The diversity also encourages seeing as much of the country as possible. Mexico City and Yucatan were all that time allowed for on this trip, but a glimpse into the country’s splendor was assured
Mexico City has so much to offer it is difficult to know where to begin – between the rich history, jaw dropping museums, red hot street food and live music on every corner, you are never in doubt as to where you are.
One of the largest metropolitan areas in the world, Mexico City has 16 boroughs and more than 300 neighbourhoods. It might seem a bit overwhelming at first, but most of the attractions are concentrated in the historic center, the site of the Aztec capital, while the elegant Paseo de la Reforma is lined with colonial architecture and striking contemporary buildings.
San Angel and Coyoacan seemed like a gentle place to start exploring the capital, with an atmosphere distinct from the rest of the city, the peaceful pace and ridiculously photogenic buildings proved a charming experience. Avenida Franciso Sosa was particularly delightful, lined with well-maintained colourful mansions built by wealthy families in colonial times.
Much favoured as a place of residence by artists and writers, famous inhabitants in the past have included Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, and Russian revolutionary Leon Trotsky, the latter having been assasinated in Coyoacan in August 1940.
La Casa Azul (Blue House) is where painter Frida Kahlo was born, lived much of her life and died. The house is a treasure trove of her work, but also of the many artifacts associated with her life and that of her lover Diego Rivera, with whom she shared the house. Donated to the nation by Rivera in 1955, not long after Frida’s death, it has been preserved much as it was when they lived there and offers great insight into the world of Mexico’s most celebrated artists.
Back in the bustling Historic Centre, Zocalo is one of the biggest public squares in the world. Arguably the most beautiful building in the historic centre is Palacio de Bellas Artes, conceived in 1905 as a new national theatre. With its dramatic Art Deco interior, one is stunned at every turn in the elegant space full of geometric shapes and spectacular illumination, housing some of Mexico’s finest murals.
Also not to be missed is Museo Nacional de Antropologia, the largest and most visited museum in the country. And it’s easy to see why. It contains significant archaeological and anthropological artifacts from Mexico’s pre-Columbian heritage, such as the Stone of the Sun (or the Aztec calendar stone) in a remarkable building. Everything about the experience is inspiring, and the layout of the artifacts forces one to explore the space in unexpected ways, leading to pleasing discoveries. The ground floor is dedicated to archeological finds from ancient Mexico, each room dealing with a particular civilization or region of the country, while the upper floor displays ethnology collections.
Inagurated in 1964, the museum by Pedro Ramirez Vazquez houses a canopy considered to be the largest concrete structure supported by a single pillar in the world. The museum’s large central patio is covered by an 84-metre long canopy which is balanced on an 11-metre carved bronze columm that rains water onto the stone floor. The majesty of the museum’s content is more than honoured by the spectacular architecture of the space.
Yucatan
In just under two hours, a flight to the Yucatan Peninsula offers a very different tempo and landscape to that of the capital city. Some of the finest archeological sites in the Americas are situated here, including Chichen Itza and Uxmal.
The city of Merida was the destination of choice, founded by the conquistador Francisco de Montejo in 1542 on the ruins of a large Maya settlement. In the early 1900s, Merida was said to have more millionaires per head of population than anywhere else in the world. This prosperity is reflected in its grand mansions, squares, parks and statues.
But the real reason behind the choice of Merida is its proximity to the late-Classic Maya site of Uxmal (“thrice built”), one of the most complex and harmonious expressions of Puuc architecture. Whilst Chichen Itza is the best-preserved Maya site on the peninsula, those in the know love Uxmal for the opportunity to avoid the large tourist crowds that are drawn to Chichen Itza from resorts in Cancun, and for its mysteries.
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Uxmal is in better condition than many other Maya sites. Much was built with well-cut stones set into a core of concrete not relying on plaster to hold the building together, and thanks to its good state of preservation, it is one of the few Maya cities where one can get a good idea of how the entire ceremonial center looked in ancient times.
Away from the archeological wonders of the peninsula, the natural wonders are also nothing short of breathtaking.
Yucatan is home to a secret underworld of turquoise pools where Mayans communicated with the gods. Known as cenotes, these hidden swimming holes are formed by the collapse of porous limestone bedrock, revealing a secret subterranean world of groundwater pools. No two cenotes are alike, some are more cavernous, while others are more exposed to the sunlight, making the element of surprise part of their magic.
With fresh water filtered by the earth, the clear and pure jewel coloured pools contain frolicking fish and are so clear you can see everything around you in high-definition clarity. Swimming in a water filled cave under a jungle-framed sky is a moment that will transport you in space and time. Much like a trip to Mexico!
