Situated along the Danube between Melk and Krems, Wachau is one of the very few wine-producing UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Celebrated for its magnificent abbeys and castles, quaint towns, pristine nature and breathtaking landscape, Wachau is arguably the leading wine region of Austria. While others adhere to the classically named Districtus Austriae Controllatus system (similar to French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée), the less-than-plebeian Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus (literally: Wachau Noble Wine District) has its own classification, from Steinfeder (“feather grass”) to Federspiel (“falconry”) and Smaragd (“emerald”).
Located at the heart of Wachau is Weingut Nikolaihof – the oldest estate in Austria and the first biodynamic estate in the world. Vines have been grown in its vineyards continuously for 2,000 years, with the first documented evidence dating back to 470 AD, indeed before Emperor Romulus Augustus was disposed and the Western Roman Empire gave up the ghost.
Now at helm of this historic estate are Nikolaus and Christine Saahs. The eldest daughter of a time-honoured winemaking family from Kremstal, Christine was raised at Weingut Geyerhof, merely a few kilometres away and one of the 26 member-estates of the prestigious Österreichischen Traditionsweingüter (equivalent to Germany’s Verband Deutscher Prädikats- und Qualitätsweingüter).
Founded in 1135, Weingut Geyerhof – also biodynamic, since 1988 – has been owned by the same family for 23 generations since the 16th century, now by Christine’s younger sister Ilse Maier and her son Josef Maier (Christine’s nephew). Talk about a small world!
At the first ever biodynamic wine dinner hosted by Cottage Vineyards in Macau last month, CLOSER had the pleasure of interviewing Christine, who provided her insights into biodynamic winemaking. The interview was conducted partly in German – the author’s German is unfortunately less than fluent – and partly in English, a language which Christine started to learn at the age of 50… such is the admirable work ethic of the lady!
Embracing biodynamic viticulture well ahead of everyone else must have been a risk – what motivated you to make this decision?
I am a follower of Rudolf Steiner’s anthroposophy, indeed the origin of biodynamic viticulture. Merely abstaining from chemicals would not suffice. One needs to heal the soil, which has been exploited and poisoned for far too long.
How is biodynamic viticulture applied in Weingut Nikolaihof?
We insist on adding nothing chemical and using nothing artificial. There exists in one handful of healthy soil more living organisms than all humans on earth. Therefore, we use plants and herbs to help invigorate vines.
How does biodynamic viticulture affect the quality and style of Weingut Nikolaihof’s wines?
Our wines are low in alcohol yet intensely flavoured. Quality is always in the aftertaste, and good wines do not need high alcohol content, the key being the life power of the vines, which should be allowed to grow naturally without any stress. Cultured yeast takes the natural energy away from wine.
Nikolaihof Vom Stein Riesling Smaragd 2011
Sourced from the oldest vineyard in Central Europe – planted in 5th century AD – and matured in oak barrels for 1.5 years. Bright citrine with luminous golden reflex, the nose is classy and focused, offering grapefruit, apricot, guava, sage, lime blossom and fragrant minerals. Anchored by protruding acidity and steely minerality, the palate is dense and nuanced, delivering lime peel, pomelo, peach, lentils, fresh herbs and white smoke. Medium-full bodied at 12.5%, the vibrant entry continues through an expressive mid-palate, leading to an elongated finish.
Nikolaihof Im Weingebirge Baumpresse Riesling 2006
Processed in the world’s largest functioning wooden press dating back to 17th century, matured in large oak barrels for 2 years and bottled in 2008. Rich citrine with radiant golden reflex, the nose is extravagant and multifarious, effusing lime peel, Williams pear, nectarine, green almond, brioche and kerosene. Buttressed by abundant acidity and pulsating minerality, the palate is ripe and stocky, providing gooseberry, physalis, white cherry, lanolin, wet stone and white smoke. Medium-full bodied at 12.5%, the concentrated entry continues through an animated mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.
Nikolaihof Vinothek Riesling 1997
Nikolaihof’s “new” offering, bottled in August 2014 – after 17 years of maturation in oak barrels. Intense citrine with rich golden reflex, the nose is haunting and perfumed, radiating clementine, white strawberry, white cherry, peach pit, frangipane, fine minerals and pear blossom. Braced by generous acidity and articulate minerality, the palate is operatic and profound, emanating mandarin, yuzu, nectarine, passion fruit, green almond, chamomile and kerosene. Silken in texture and full-bodied at 12.5%, the voluptuous entry evolves into a nuanced mid-palate, leading to an ethereal finish.
Nikolaihof Nikolauswein Trockenbeerenauslese 2005
A blend of 70% Riesling, 20% Grüner Veltliner and 10% other white varieties, harvested around St Nicholas Day on December 6, hence Nikolauswein. Shimmering old amber with gleaming tawny hues, the nose is hedonist and majestic, oozing persimmon, dried strawberry, crystallised orange peel, Stollen, beechwood honey, old Madeira, Birnenwasser and osmanthus. Underpinned by profuse acidity, the palate is and opulent and profound, presenting dried cherry, raspberry confit, crystallised mandarin, Christmas spice, walnut oil, roasted almond, crème brûlée and toffee. Decadently sweet, viscously textured and full-bodied at 10.5%, the exuberant entry persists through an irrepressible mid-palate, leading to a… well, does this wine actually “finish” on the palate?
10 Facts about Weingut Nikolaihof
- Oldest estate in Austria, and possibly Europe
- First biodynamic estate in the world (since 1971)
- Produces Austria’s first 100 Parker points wine (Nikolaihof Vinothek Riesling 1995)
- Nikolaihof Vinothek Riesling 1995
- 22ha under vine, mainly old vines (40-50 years old)
- No artificial fertilisers, fungicides, herbicides, insecticides or pesticides
- No cultured yeast, enzyme, additional sugar
- or chemicals
- No cooling, stabilisation, must concentration
- or acidity adjustment
- All wines within 12.5% ABV
- 100,000 bottles produced per year
- Wines exported to 40 countries around the world
CONTACT
Ms Ada Leung
Cottage Vineyards
www.cottagevineyards.com
T: +852 2395 1293