In the third installment of our German wine series, we find some wonderful wine and food pairings for the festive season
If Riesling is the crown of German wine, Eiswein is certainly the jewel. CLOSER recently attended a private tasting hosted by Martin Palmer, Director of Thomas Palmer Fine German Wines. Featuring five exceptional Riesling Eisweins from Nahe, west of Frankfurt, such a tasting is unprecedented in this region. A native of Nahe, Martin Palmer understands his gems intimately.
Macau CLOSER: What is Eiswein and what differentiates it from other sweet wines like Sauternes or Tokaji?
Martin Palmer: Probably the only noble sweet wine untouched by botrytis cinerea (“noble rot”), Eiswein is made from 100% healthy berries, hence its pristine fruits, crystal-clear purity, and crispy acidity.
Why is Eiswein so rare and how is it produced?
Because the requirements are truly stringent. Berries must freeze on the vines and, with chaptalisation strictly forbidden, sugar levels at harvest must reach 110g/l; top Eisweins significantly exceed this minimum. German law stipulates that harvest may take place only when temperatures drop below -7°C; grapes are harvested at even lower temperatures. Less than five percent of the original crop becomes Eiswein, that is less than five hl/ha.
Given such difficulties, why do vintners make Eiswein?
Indeed, variable weather conditions could lead to no yields at all, come December and January. Eiswein cannot be produced every year, hence it remains a fascinating challenge for vintners, just like the Old Course at St Andrews is for golfers.
VDP – Verband Deutscher Prädikats – und Qualitätsweingüter
Founded in 1910 and the oldest organisation of its kind, membership of VDP is highly selective and prestigious.
Großes Gewächs is equivalent to Premier Grand Cru
Große Lage is equivalent to Grand Cru
Oechsle Scale (°Oe)
A scale to measure the density of grape must
2010 Dr. Crusius Traiser Rotenfels Riesling Eiswein VDP Große Lage
With chilled mango pudding
Bright lemon-yellow with sunny golden reflex, the fragrant nose comprises lime peel, grapefruit, passion fruit, guava, and crystallised tangerine, adorned by elderflower. On the palate, lemon, lime, peach, apricot, and crystallised mandarin are balanced by refreshing acidity. At 7.5% ABV and above 200°Oe, this is the most fruit-driven of the quintet.
2010 Schäfer-Fröhlich Felseneck Riesling Eiswein VDP Große Lage
With Shanghainese sweet-and-sour fish
Shimmering aureolin with bright golden reflex, the concentrated nose offers mandarin peel, peach, apricot, pineapple, and guava, with palpable steeliness and hints of kerosene. Laser-focused, the palate comprises tangerine, grapefruit, Sicilian orange, ume, and passion fruit, balanced by piercing acidity. At 6% ABV and above 200°Oe, this is the most precise of the quintet.
2002 Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling Eiswein VDP Große Lage
With Portuguese bread pudding
Rich gold with sunglow reflex, the jovial nose comprises grapefruit, lychee, passion fruit, sultana, and cinnamon, decorated by honeysuckle. Joyous and luxurious, the palate offers nectarine, pineapple, brioche, marzipan, sweet ginger, and crystallised tangerine, balanced by lively acidity. At 9.5% ABV and above 200°Oe, this is the most jubilant of the quintet.
1999 Tesch Langenlonsheimer Löhrer Berg Riesling Eiswein VDP Große Lage
With apple strudel with cinnamon
Bright amber with copper reflex, the opulent nose offers fig, raisin, marzipan, crystallised mandarin peel, and cinnamon, elaborated by osmanthus. Equally lavish, the palate comprises apricot, nectarine, dried mango, sultana, crystallised tangerine, and fruit cake, balanced by vibrant acidity. At 6.5% ABV and 160°Oe, this is the most festive of the quintet.
2010 Gut Hermannsberg Niederhäuser Hermannsberg Riesling Eiswein VDP Große Lage
With pan-fried scallops with mango chutney
Glossy jonquil with bright golden reflex, the nose is an ethereal potpourri of citrus fruits, stony fruits, and purifying minerals, embellished by lavender and white flowers; exceptionally delicate, integrated, and perfumed. Tension and exhilaration continue through the palate, with tantalising acidity and cleansing minerality. At 7% ABV and above 200°Oe, this is the most regal of the quintet.
contact
Martin Palmer
Thomas Palmer Fine German Wines
www.finegermanwines.hk
Macau +853 6365 7052
Hong Kong +852 9137 1296
