The distinctive flavours of Corsican wine
“Even with my eyes closed, I would recognise Corsica from afar, for the perfume of her maquis”
Napoléon Bonaparte on his homeland
France has all reason to be proud of its wines, with such glittering regions as Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and Rhône, whose emblematic varieties have conquered large swathes of the winemaking world. Yet, equally captivating is the enduring diversity that exists within the boundaries of the Hexagon, as well as the distinctive wines produced in the limitrophe regions of Alsace, Brittany, Savoy and Corsica – the birthplace of Napoléon Bonaparte.
Geographically closer to Italy than France, in various ways Corsica does appear more Italian than French, whether in its culture or language, cuisine or wine. The l’Île de Beauté (“Island of Beauty”), as Corsica is known, used to be anything but French, having for centuries been ruled by the maritime Republic of Genoa, until the Ancien Régime annexed the newly independent Corsican Republic. As fiery and resolute as its most famous son Napoléon Bonaparte, Corsica is unlike any other French region by character, and its wines are every bit as distinctive.
Vines were first brought to Corsica by Ionian Greek seafaring traders from Phocaea in the 6th century BC. Owing to its history and geographical location (just below the keystone of the Latin Arch), Corsica is singular in growing the Italian-originated Vermentino, Niellucciu (Sangiovese) and Sciaccarellu (Mammolo), alongside French Pinot Noir, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault, as well as Spanish Tempranillo.
On invitation by Mr Vincent Cervoni, a native of Corsica and manager of Corsican Wine Board (Asia), Macau CLOSER recently had the unique opportunity to sample some 20 Corsican wines of diverse styles.

Macau CLOSER: Given the outstanding quality of its invigorating whites and stylish reds, why are Corsican wines so rare in this region?
Vincent Cervoni: Well, that is exactly why I am here (chuckles). The island of Corsica is geographically small and limited. Its high-altitude vineyards and mineral-rich granitic soil are conducive to the complexity and elegance of wines, but low yield is the trade-off.
The excellent quality of Corsican wines does come at a price, does it not?
This is partly because, apart from small production, some 80 percent of Corsican wines are actually consumed on the island, as Corsica is an extremely popular holiday destination. In addition, the bottles in front of us had to travel first to Marseille, and then on to Asia, hence the relatively high transport cost. Yet, I firmly believe that the price tags are justified by the quality, as you have rightly pointed out.
How do you envisage the future of Corsican wines in this region?
Corsican wines already have some awareness and popularity in Japan, and we want to expand into the Chinese-speaking region and Southeast Asia. Corsican wines are now served in many Michelin-starred restaurants around the world, and recently in Hong Kong as well. I am confident that with their unique character and quality, they will find a place in this region, which has an affinity for new tastes and rare products.

Casa Nova Isula d’Amore Moscatu Frizzante NV
A single-varietal Muscat (Moscatu in Corsican) from the easterly Corse AOC. Bright lemon-yellow with pale golden reflex, the invigorating nose offers fresh grapes, white clover honey and daffodil. Maintained by uplifting acidity and lively mousse, the joyful palate delivers green apple, white peach and rose petal. Off-sweet and medium-light bodied at 7.5%, the fruity entry carries onto a fleshy mid-palate, leading to a summery finish.

Clos San Quilico Patrimonio 2012
A single varietal Niellucciu from the eponymous northerly Patrimonio AOC. Bright garnet with burgundy-cardinal rim, the perfumed nose radiates blackberry, black cherry, eucalyptus, sous bois and violet. Buttressed by succulent acidity and ripe tannins, the melodious palate exudes bilberry, cassis, liquorice, spice box and coffea arabica. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the aromatic entry evolves into an expansive mid-palate, leading to a redolent finish.

Domaine Vico Rosé 2011
A blend of Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu (closely related to Sangiovese and Mammolo respectively) from Corse AOC. Transparent salmon pink with light copper-coral reflex, the refreshing nose reveals white strawberry, cucumber, maquis and white rose. Underpinned by energetic acidity, traces of petillance and tannins, the stylish palate emanates Seville orange, pink apple, bouquet garni and white tea. Medium-light bodied at 12%, the fragrant persists through a floral mid-palate, leading to a minerally finish.

Clos Culombu Cuvée Collection Blanc 2013
A single-varietal Vermentino (Vermentinu in Corsican) from the northwesterly Corse Calvi AOC. Bright citrine with pale golden reflex, the exotic nose provides pomelo peel, guava, sweet ginger and oyster shell. Braced by vivacious acidity and pure minerality, the harmonious palate supplies yuzu, apricot, passion fruit and fleur de sel. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the expressive entry continues through a tropical mid-palate, leading to a clear finish.
CONTACT
Mr Vincent Cervoni | Corsican Wine Board (Asia) | www.asia.vinsdecorse.com | [email protected] | +852 9689 7955