Kun Iam Temple is both a spiritual site and a treasure trove of history
Whilst it is frequented year-round, Kun Iam Temple gets particularly busy and interesting during the month of Chinese New Year. Starting from the 26th day of the month and continuing for the next two days, the temple is crowded with worshippers carrying incense sticks, and praying to the Goddess Kun Iam for divine favour – a loan from her “vault”.
“In the past, we used to see a long queue that stretched down the street [during the three-day festival],” says Mrs. Cheong, the owner of a shop selling incense sticks next to the temple. “Today, people still try to come earlier, hoping to be the first to offer the incense sticks to Kun Iam. This shows Kun Iam how dedicated you are and the chances of drawing the higher ‘borrowing amount’ is higher.”
“Borrowing Money from Kun Iam’s Vault” is a traditional festival where people worship Kun Iam, the Chinese Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, over the three particular days to “borrow” luck from her. Of course, you do not borrow real money, but that can be interpreted in many ways, from career advancement to better health for your family members.
The Chinese Buddhist Goddess of Mercy is widely worshipped for her readiness to rescue those in need, and her responsiveness to peoples’ wishes. Being the earliest temple dedicated to Kun Iam in Macau, Kun Iam Temple is popular among worshippers seeking her blessings. At both side of its entrance there are couplets on stone inscriptions saying: “The Buddhist Sutras were transmitted from India; Kun Iam manifests miracles in the South Sea”.
Kun Iam Temple, known as Kun Iam Tong among locals, is hailed as one of the three Ancient Temples of Macau, alongside A-Ma Temple and Lin Fung Temple. To believers, it is a spiritual site for worshipping folk deities, and seeking blessings for health and fortune. To history and art buffs, it is a treasure trove with an impressive collection of wall paintings, scrolls, and calligraphy.
Consensus has not been reached as to when the temple was built, however the history of the temple dates back to the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644), evidenced by a stone alter installed in 1627 during the reign of Tianwuqi, the 16th emperor of the Ming Dynasty, according to Macao Temples, written by Chan Wai Hang and published in 2002.
The book further details that the temple underwent large-scale expansions during the reign of Jiaqing, the seventh emperor of the Qing Dynasty, followed by rounds of renovations during the reign of Xianfeng and Guangxu, the tenth and the twelfth emperors of the Qing Dynasty. To this day, the temple still retains the finest architectural examples from both the Ming and Qing eras.
Kun Iam Temple is a palatial complex comprising spacious courtyards, back gardens, and large and small halls serving different purposes. Upon entering, visitors will find themselves in front of three grand halls, whose roof ridges are ornately embellished with porcelain figures of mythological and Buddhist narratives. The Main Buddha’s palace honors the Buddha of Three Treasures. The second hall is the Longevity Hall, devoted to Maitreya (a future Buddha of this world), and the third hall – Kun Iam Hall – is dedicated to the Goddess Kun Iam, Weito, God of Earth, and the eighteen Arhat.
Other small temples surrounding the central buildings are dedicated to Tin Hau, God of Earth, and other folk deities, while in the left wing, there are several side halls housing the spiritual tablets of the deceased.
In its early years, Monk Dashan (1633 – 1705) was a resident, famous for his literary achievements and friendships with scholars and litterateurs from across Southern China. As Kun Iam Temple witnessed the transition of dynasties from Ming to Qing, many adherents of the former dynasty became Buddhist monks and became acquainted with Monk Dashan.
As a result, the temple maintained a good relationship with litterateurs. According to Macao Temples, it was frequented by famous scholars such as Qu Dajun, Chen Gongyin, and Liang Peilan. It now houses a number of precious artifacts and literary works, such as the diary of Monk Shangui and the tablet House Backward Pace by calligraphist Yin Bingshou of the Qing Dynasty.
For dedicated worshippers, it may be easy to overlook the historical significance of Kun Iam Temple. But for history enthusiasts, the temple is more than an important religious site. It also marks a significant moment in Chinese history. According to Macau: A Cultural Janus (1999), authored by Christina Miu Bing Cheng, the Treaty of Wangxia was signed between China and the United States on June 18, 1844 in the back garden of the temple. The treaty took its name from the Mandarin pronunciation of Mong-Ha, the name of the village where Kun Iam Temple is located. It is also the first bilateral treaty signed by the both countries.
Deemed as an ‘unequal treaty’, the treaty of Wangxia granted Americans the right to learn Mandarin; the right to buy land in the five treaty ports, and to build churches and hospitals there; fixed tariffs at treaty ports; established most-favoured-nation status; and guaranteed that American citizens could only be tried by U.S. consular officers, not Chinese courts.
That year, President John Tyler dispatched Caleb Cushing, a Massachusetts lawyer, to China to serve as his representative in the negotiations. The Qing Empire appointed Qi Ying, governor of Guangdong and Guangxi provinces, as their representative. Today, visitors can still find the historic stone table where the treaty was signed, as they stroll through the temple’s scenic back garden.
So, in addition to “borrowing money” from Kun Iam, be sure to discover all the historical treasures of Kun Iam Temple on your next visit, that will offer you a glimpse into the rich cultural dynamism of the city.
No. 2 Avenida do Coronel Mesquita
7:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.
3. Mong-Ha Fort
Bus Routes nearby:
12, 17, 18, 18B, 23, 28C