The spiritual home of Pinot Noir and the holy grail of Burgundy, Côte-de-Nuits occupies a prominent position in the realm of Bacchus, as well as a unique place in the mortal hearts of many an enchanted wine lover. Boasting a lion’s share (75%) of Burgundy’s grand crus, the world’s finest and rarest Pinot Noir are produced along la Route des Grands Crus, running through a list of famous names like Chambolle-Musigny, Flagey-Echézeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis and Vosne-Romanée.
There exists this tempting but fallacious dichotomy that New World wine, relying on science and innovation, is instinctively meritocratic. Meanwhile, counting on predestined terroir and tradition, Old Word wine is inherently aristocratic. It is as if New World gems are self-made men, whereas Old World nectars blue-blooded noblemen.
Such a notion is at best a gross simplification, and at worst detachment from reality. It is good fortune to own and make wine from prestigious vineyards, but tending to them throughout the year is not all wine and roses. The Devillard family, with a winemaking history dating back for centuries, understands this intimately.
When Christiane and Bertrand Devillard, along with their children Aurore and Amaury, acquired Domaine des Perdrix in 1995, it was an underperforming estate. Fast-forward two decades, and the Domaine is now a leading estate in Côte-de-Nuits, with 12ha of prized vineyards – half of which is grand cru and premier cru – stretching from Nuits-Saint-Georges to Vosne-Romanée.
The difference is hard work: from yield control to short pruning, green harvesting to rigorous sorting, and temperature control to pre-fermentation maceration.
On managing a world-renowned site such as Échezeaux, “the feeling is both rewarding and demanding, as it is endless work”, says Monsieur Bertrand Devillard. “A great terroir offers conditions for making great wines, but you must serve it, and not the other way round. Yield control and berry maturity are all-important, but so is elegance via rich fruitiness, supple body and rounded tannins.”
Speaking about the challenges facing Burgundy, “never in my life have I seen consecutive years of such tiny output”, explains Devillard, “one of the challenges for Burgundy is to keep price increases in check, which is what we are doing at Domaines-Devillard.”
Domaine des Perdrix Vosne-Romanée
2009
Shimmering carmine-garnet with lustrous crimson-ruby reflex, the fragrant and subtle nose exudes morello cherry, crème de cassis, eucalyptus and cinnamon, enriched by violet essence. Delicate and redolent, the palate radiates red cherry, dried raspberry, Oolong tea (Tieguanyin), truffle and hints of game. Supported by animated acidity and velvety tannins, the serene entry evolves into a stylish mid-palate, leading to an elegant finish. With flavours in unison and a seamless structure, this bijou is truly irresistible. Ranked No.3 of 209 wines rated by Le Grand Palmarès.
(NB: Le Grand Palmarès is the first guide to establish a classification of all domains in Burgundy, based on 10 years of ratings by la Revue du Vin de France, Gault & Millau and Guide Hachette)
Domaine des Perdrix Nuits-Saint-Georges
Premier Cru Aux Perdrix (Quasi Monopole)
2007
Sourced from vines grown on mid-slope of Aux Perdrix, 99% owned by the Domaine. Rich garnet with auburn-carmine rim, the aromatic nose offers raspberry, red cherry, cinnamon and truffle, elaborated by hints of violet. The intricate palate delivers cranberry, morello cherry, vanilla spice, wild mushroom and game. With vivacious acidity and developed tannins, the steady entry continues through a focused mid-palate, leading to a measured finish. To realise its full potential, further cellaring is necessary. Ranked No.1 of 366 wines rated by Le Grand Palmarès.
Domaine des Perdrix Nuits-Saint-Georges
Premier Cru Aux Perdrix Les 8 Ouvrées
2009
A ‘super cuvée’ sourced from vines up to 90 years of age. Dark garnet with carmine-ruby rim, the auspicious nose offers wild bilberry, black cherry, oaky vanilla, coffea arabica and game. The propitious palate delivers jammy raspberry, dried cherry, porcini mushroom, sandalwood and toasted oak. With abundant acidity and substantial tannins, the sturdy entry evolves into an articulate mid-palate, leading to a concentrated finish. Extremely well-balanced, it will age gracefully for many years.
Domaine des Perdrix Échezeaux Grand Cru 2009
The majority of vines are located in Échezeaux-du-Dessus, bordering those of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Les Poulaillères. Deep garnet with glossy cardinal-ruby rim, the perfumed and nuanced nose reveals black cherry, dried raspberry, nutmeg, vanilla oak and white truffle, embellished by hints of violet. Scented and discreet, the palate supplies wave after wave cranberry, red cherry, clove, vanilla spice, black truffle and hints of game. Buttressed by spirited acidity and delicious tannins, the velvety entry continues through a supple mid-palate, leading to a graceful finish. An iconic wine from an excellent vintage, patience will be generously rewarded. Ranked No.2 of 57 wines rated by Le Grand Palmarès.
Domaines Devillard
Grands Vins de Bourgogne
www.domaines-devillard.com
+33 (0)3 8545 2161
BP 5, 71640 MERCUREY, France
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