Hangzhou, the capital city of Zhejiang province just south of Shanghai, ancient capital of the Song dynasty, and home to some of the most famous tea in China (Longjin) and of course the magnificent West Lake; this was the venue for an impressive culinary event hosted by Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake paying tribute to the cuisine of Jiangsu and Zhejiang – the sixth annual Chef’s Table by Chef Wang Yong. Chef Wang is the Senior Executive Chinese Chef of the elegant Jin Sha Restaurant at The Four Seasons property, and initiated the first Chef’s Table event back in 2016.
“This year is the sixth edition of Chef’s Table. What began as a spontaneous idea has evolved into a recurring event dedicated to capturing the essence of the seasons. For me, Chef’s Table reflects my personality and my culinary philosophy, shaped by years of experience,” says Chef Wang when we spoke to him before the event in mid-September.
“We started preparing in February, so it’s been a total of six months preparation. Over the years, guest expectations have risen more and more, so every year we have to involve more people in the preparations and there’s more and more pressure. If we’re going to do it, we have to do it to the best of our ability. I want our guests to experience something very unique, both in our dishes and through our chefs.”
The Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake
Pressure and expectations are something very familiar to Chef Wang, who honed his culinary skills at the famous Whampoa Club in Shanghai on the Bund. He later moved to Hangzhou to be part of the pre-opening team of Jin Sha and has led the restaurant to great success over the past 16 years. Jin Sha earned one Michelin star in the inaugural Michelin Guide Hangzhou in 2023, successfully retaining the honour this year. It has also received three diamonds from the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide for the past seven consecutive years, and has been rated as the only four-star restaurant in Hangzhou by Forbes Travel Guide for eight years since 2016.
“As we prepare the menu, we first have to identify a theme that incorporates the concepts of the season. Within this framework, we unleash our imagination to convey our understanding of that season,” continues Chef Wang. “For Chef’s Table, I won’t limit myself to just Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisine; that’s not necessarily the case. The most important thing is for guests to experience my culinary journey.”
Chef Wang’s imagination takes guests on a gastronomic voyage through the cuisine of Jiangsu and Zhejiang, while also paying homage to many other culinary influences clustered around the Yangtze River Delta including Shaoxing, Xiaoshan, Suzhou, Wenzhou, Taizhou, and Ningbo, introducing delicacies from the region’s many lakes, forests, and mountains as well as the sea. Our meal begins with West Lake Watershield and Sea Urchin Jelly with Lotus Root and Pine Oil. Watershield is a local specialty of Jiangnan, found growing throughout West Lake. To this, Chef Wang adds sea urchin, lotus root, lotus root mousse, and pine oil for an uncommonly smooth taste, with flashes of sweetness from the sea urchin and tantalizing aromas from the pine oil.
Other highlights of the exclusive menu include Yellow Wine Marinated Geoduck Clam; Double-Boiled Aged Preserved Vegetable Soup with River Shrimp; Steamed Pumpkin Blossom Stuffed with Pork, Water Chestnut, Hairy Crab Meat, Dried Scallop, and Yellow Wine Vinasse Sauce; Pancake Rolled with Crisp Fritter, Bombay Duck, Sea Sedge, Lettuce and Caviar; and Crispy Pigeon Leg Stuffed with Fish Maw and Ganba Mushroom. The meal concludes with two delightfully refreshing deserts: Crystalline Pineapple Cake with Mung Bean and Birds Nest Pineapple Dew with Chinese Liquor.
In a wonderfully mysterious twist, throughout the meal, the full menu was never completly revealed to the guests. Instead, before each dish, a beautifully illustrated place card was presented face down on the table to keep diners guessing until they were allowed to turn it over to discover what they were about to eat.
“This year’s Chef’s Table, led by Chef Wang, was nothing short of a masterpiece. Every aspect was meticulously crafted, from the stunning décor to the detailed menu presentations, complete with illustrations that hinted at the individual dishes, and the thoughtfully curated wine pairings,” comments Gianni Costa, General Manager of Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake. “Each dish was uniquely special and executed to perfection, demonstrating how traditional cuisine can transcend its boundaries to offer exciting new culinary journeys.”
The exclusive menu was available to guests for a limited time during Mid-Autumn Festival, enjoyed in the exquisitely elegant surrounds of Jin Sha restaurant. And even if you missed this year’s Chef Table, there are plenty of other mouthwatering Zhejiang flavours presented on the A La Carte menu at Jin Sha all year round. Located within a stunning Bill Bensley-designed garden, Jin Sha’s impressive interiors are by SPIN Design Studio of Tokyo, known for designing several acclaimed restaurants, including Caprice at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong.
Signature dishes include Shanghainese braised pork with abalone in sweet soy sauce; Cod fish soup; Crispy chicken with spicy salt and Longjing tea flavored cream brulee. Another must try dish is the traditional local delight Pian Er Chuan – noodles cooked in wild rice stem, preserved vegetables and bamboo shoots.
To accompany the meal, Hangzhou’s finest selection of teas is served from the Tea Station at the center of Jin Sha. The history of tea as herbal medicine goes back more than 4,000 years in Zhejiang Province, before emerging as a fashionable drink during the Tang Dynasty in the 7th to 10th centuries. The selection at Jin Sha includes a range of white, green, oolong, black and herbal teas, including the famous Longjing tea, also known as dragon well tea, native to the West Lake area. Longjing tea also enhances the flavor of several dishes, including the Hangzhou favorite Sautéed River shrimp with ‘Long Jing’ tea traditional” (fried local lake shrimp).
“At Jin Sha, we aim to present one of the world’s great cuisines in its truest form,” concludes Chef Wang.
Set along the banks of the fabled West Lake Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake is a tranquil enclave studded with ponds, courtyards surrounding picturesque Chinese gardens, willow trees, and mist covered lagoons. Small, quiet, and exclusive, the hotel features just 78 guest rooms, with many opening out to a terrace conservatory featuring windows that may be opened in fine weather. Views encompass forest glades, traditional gardens, or lovely West Lake. Decor blends centuries of Chinese tradition with chic designer style, seamlessly incorporating the latest technology for business and entertainment
