Arguably Macau’s most famous restaurant, the three-starred Robuchon a Galera, has relocated to its new home high a top Grand Lisboa, and taking over its hallowed space at the Hotel Lisboa is the perhaps the first truly fine dining Portuguese restaurant in Macau, Guincho a Galera.
Guincho a Galera is a direct relative of the Michelin starred Fortaleza do Guincho, located in the fortress built in 1642 under the orders of King Joao IV. And it was there that Head Chef Martinho Moniz spent time preparing for his assignment in Macau.
“We want to try to show people that Portuguese cuisine is more than what they are used to seeing in normal Portuguese restaurants around town”, says the 31 year-old Head Chef.
There are of course many Portuguese restaurants in the city, some with Macanese and Chinese influences to be found on the menus, but Chef Martinho insists that his dishes are completely faithful to authentic Portuguese recipes only. And he is not concerned that diners may not think of Portuguese food as fine dining cuisine.
“Any food can by fine dining”, he asserts, “you just need to give the ingredients something special, something unique, and pay particular attention to the details, that’s what makes it gourmet.”
Nonetheless, some dishes are more difficult than others.
“Roasted black pork with clams is traditionally a very rustic dish so it was a challenge to make it different and modern, but everything on the menu is a completely original creation,” says Moniz.
Once you have tasted Chef Martinho’s creations you are left in no doubt that this truly is Portuguese cuisine at its very best, combining the finest of three worlds: fresh seafood from the US, vegetables and herbs from Asia and authentic ingredients from Portugal, naturally.
The meats are all beautifully succulent and cooked to perfection, the vegetables are crisp and full of flavour, the servings are very generous and not what you might expect at a fine dining restaurant, and the stunning presentation is like nothing you will find in any other Portuguese restaurant in Macau.
But ask Chef Martinho to recommend his favourite dish, and he has a difficult time choosing just one: perhaps the lobster salad with stewed carrots, dates and citrus sauce, or maybe the royal duck rice with braised duck breast in a blood sauce…
On one point he is very sure: “I believe our roast suckling pig is one of the best in Macau”, he says confidently. I
n designing his new menu, Chef Martinho had the added bonus of being able to work with one of the most extensive wine lists in the world: some 8,300 labels. “Good food needs good wine and the Vinho Verde is a very good match for many of the dishes”, suggest Moniz. “It is a simple wine, fresh and sparkling, which goes very well with seafood and also pork and suckling pig as it cleanses the palate”.
And to end the meal there are indulgent desserts to choose from including cherry clafoutis with Port wine and vanilla red cherry ice-cram, or “Algarve” clementine gratin with mandarin orange sherbet. But our favourite had to be the very imaginative and delicious beer brioche with stewed pear and beer ice-cream, made with Super Bock stout of course.
Taking over the space of such a renowned restaurant as Robuchon, does Chef Martinho feel any extra pressure?
“It is a big responsibility but we are not so concerned about Michelin stars. It is more important to focus on quality food and service and creating a memorable moment for our guests”.
