Macau may have its fair share of Portuguese eateries, but with a cuisine so renowned and with such deep historic roots, the addition of a new restaurant is, without doubt, reason to celebrate. Two internationally renowned Portuguese consultant chefs are at the culinary helm of Hotel Royal’s new restaurant, Fado, which officially opened in November last year.
Chefs Luís Américo and Marco Gomes have stellar reputations in Portuguese gastronomy. Gomes has won numerous awards, and hosted a TV programme and Training Academy, while Americo has run a cooking consultancy and three successful restaurants in the northern city of Oporto. He is also the titleholder of the “Chef D’avenir 2011” award from the International Academy of Gastronomy in Paris.
It is the combination of this experience and acclaim that enables Fado to offer diners the chance to experience renowned dishes such as Polvo à Lagareiro, and of course, Bacalhau à Brás.
Upon entering Fado, a familiar Portuguese blue hue in the décor, and the deep yellow colour of glass goblets on the tables set the tone: traditional, yet modern.
Choosing from an a la carte menu that reflects this, the appetizers offer many ways to sample some of the country’s best dishes: Meia-desfeita (Marinated cod carpaccio, chickpeas, tomato and egg salad) and Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato – the most celebrated clam dish in Portugal, where dipping your bread in the white wine sauce is part of the fun – are just some of the options.
We chose Pasteis de Bacalhau, (Cod fishcakes) because, despite being a pretty easy to find in most places, finding a good take on this Portuguese staple is not so easy.
The presentation was just right, three small codfish cakes resting on a bed of pinto beans with chopped onion, drizzled with olive oil. The olive bread served with the dish was moist, chewy and rich in olives – in keeping with Portugal’s reputation for making some of the best bread in the world. The fishcakes were full of fish (not potato), and the cod was not overly salty.
For the main course, the Robalo corado sobre Puré de Couve-flor (Pan fried seabass with cauliflower purée) did not disappoint. The freshness of the fish, perched on a bed of tomato and onion, was wonderfully balanced with the delicate and creamy cauliflower purée.
For a truly traditional experience, the ‘Bacalhau à Braz’(cod fish baked with eggs and fried potatoes) is a must. Prepared at the table, this take on one of Portugal’s most famous dishes is truly a visual feast, and one of the best interpretations of the recipe around.
The menu also has wine pairings. Arroz de Pato (duck rice, baked with smoked bacon and nuts) for example, is paired with 2010 Terras d’Alter, Touriga Nacional from Alentejo, and the Leitão com chips de batata e salada de laranja (roasted suckling pig with potato chips and orange salad, with traditional seasoning of black pepper and garlic) is best enjoyed with the 2007 Murganheira Brut Reserva – Malvasia, Chardonnay, Cerceal, Pinot Noir from Távora, Portugal.
Tripas à Moda do Porto Oporto style tripe (bean stew enriched with cow’s stomach and tripe with white rice and powdered cumin) and Açorda de camarão e coentros (Shrimp bread stew from Alentejo, cooked in iron pan with olive oil and garlic, bound with egg and flavored with coriander) reflect how Fado restaurant celebrates the different regions of Portugal, and the vast array of ingredients and cooking styles it boasts.
Even if you do not have a sweet tooth, do not miss the Fondant de abóbora com mousse de queijo fresco e amêndoas tostadas (Pumpkin lava cake with white cheese mousse and toasted almonds). The warm sauce that flows from the centre of the hot sponge cake runs right into the surrounding ring of mousse, the textures and flavours combining wonderfully.
Sipping a coffee from Vista Alegre porcelain, whilst overlooking Vasco da Gama Garden is the perfect way to end your meal, having just enjoyed some of the best of Portuguese cuisine in the heart of Macau.
Fado Restaurant
Hotel Royal
Estrada da Vitoria 2-4
Macau
Tel: +853 2855 2222
www.hotelroyal.com.mo
