Earlier this year, Macau CLOSER had the pleasure of joining winemaker Edouard Kressman for a pairing lunch at Sky 21, to sample some of his family’s exceptional Bordeaux wines.
Edouard’s great-great-grandfather, Edouard Wilhelm Ferdinand Kressman was born in Prussia in 1837, but at the age of 21 was sent by his family to Bordeaux for health reasons.
He very soon developed a passion for wine and became involved in the Negociant business in the area. In the late 1870’s, Kressman began working with the owner of the Chateau La-Tour in Martillac, making wine from certain white grape varieties. Kressman’s eldest son Alfred later bought the property in 1930 and it has remained in the family ever since.
Today, the younger Edouard Kressman is based a long way from the traditional family property, residing in Beijing and working to promote Chateau LaTour-Martillac wines in China and the region.
“Previously the China market was booming, but now with the anti-corruption laws, the market has consolidated,” notes Edouard. “There are 20 to 30 percent less importers, but those who are left are more professional and the people buying wines are those who appreciate it. Gradually the Chinese will be wanting better and better quality wines. This happened in Japan, Taiwan and Korea, and it will happen in China too”.
The vineyards of Chateau LaTour-Martillac are located in the region of Graves, the birthplace of Bordeaux wines, and cover 50 hectares, with 40 of those being dedicated to the production of red wine, using 60 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 35 percent Merlot, and 5 percent Petit-Verdot.
For whites, production comes from 60 percent Sauvignon Blanc and 40 percent Semillon. Planted in Pyrenean gravel soil, the average age of the red vines is 25 years old, and the average age of the white vines is 35 years old.
“We have 20 to 30 employees and around 80 to 90 for the harvest, but we still maintain a family spirit. We still live in the chateau,” says Edouard, who recalls that when he was born in 1983 it was a particularly hot year, so his mother took him into the winery at just five days of age because it was the coolest place to be.
Adding to the family spirit of the winery is the involvement of Edouardo’s uncles, Tristan and Loic Kressman, who together own and manage the property.
The temperatures in the vineyard of Chateau LaTour-Martillac are influenced by two key factors: forests to the west protecting against wind and the moisture of the Atlantic Ocean; and the Garone river to the east which reduces the risk of frosts.
“In Bordeaux every year is unique, the weather is always different. Our job as winemakers is to take the best nature gives us and make the best possible wine,” offers Edouard.
Over lunch we sample a variety of reds and whites, with Edouard offering his insights along the way. The Chateau LaTour-Martillac White 2011 Grand Cru Classe de Graves was very fresh and lively with strong fruits and minerality and a discreet hint of wood – a perfect match for our Tuna and Salmon Tataki with grapefruit and yuzu dressing.
Later in the meal as we indulged in a slow roasted marinated Australian rack of lamb, we sample three vintages of Chateau LaTour-Martillac Red from 2000, 2005, and 2011. The 2011, made from a classic blend of 50 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 43 percent Merlot, and seven percent Petit Verdot showed a very subtle complexity and a gentle, refined elegance with silky tannis and long finish. A very solid wine produced under somewhat challenging weather conditions at the time.
Conditions for the 2005 and 2000 vintages were more favourable with dry and mild weather overall, producing two exceptional vintages characterized by deep dark colours and great aging potential. The 2005 is a particularly powerful vintage with a concentration of red and black fruits, full body and great balance. The 2000 also features dominant black fruits as well as a hint of vanilla, and strong yet silky tannins.
“Things have changed in Bordeaux over the years as we have moved to lower yields and better quality,” explains Edouard. “For us at Chateau LaTour-Martillac, we don’t try to make wines that please the critics or journalists. Of course we are happy when they like our wines, but most important is the loyalty of customers.”
Fortunately for Eduoard, the critics like the wines too, with Robert Parker giving 90 plus ratings for nearly all of them.
