Umani-Ronchi-Vineyars

Doubly delightful

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Recently CLOSER enjoyed the company, and wines, of two fascinating wine makers from Italy, over a delicious pairing lunch at 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana.  Michele Bernetti of Umani Ronchi and Antonio Rallo of Donnafugata, presented a few of their best wines, each with their very own, distinct qualities. 
 
Our exquisite lunch journey began with Marinated Japanese Tuna, yuzu and tofu emulsion, 8½ selection caviar paired with a glass of 2017 Donnafugata “Lighea”.  Based on the island of Sicily, Donnafugata has four vineyards ranging from clay soils, to sandy and of course volcanic, due to their proximity to the active Mt. Etna. 
 
“It’s a volcanic island with mountains and very small terraces, which means no tractors and lots of handwork.  Harvest is very labour intensive,” explains Antonio Rallo.  “The volanic soil around Mt. Etna means the roots can really go down and explore, which is very important in a dry vintage.  We only get rain between November and March, so the dry season is very long, which is fantastic for the grape, but it can be a bit too much stress. So it’s good that the roots can really go deep.  When we built a new cellar in 2006, we found roots going down to 14 metres, which is something you never normally see.  Usually they just go down 2.5 metres.” 
 
The windy conditions, especially in Spring, means that the vines need to be trained to grow in small, low bushes, and this concentrated vine approach is facilitated by the fact that the roots can go so deep to find water. 
 
“The wind also brings the sea spray and deposits some salt into the soil, so there is a slight saltiness too.”
 
Lighea is made from Zibibbo grapes, also known as Muscat grapes of Alexandria, originally brought to the region by Arab traders.   
 
“A very unique grape in a very unique terroir, with a lot of richness in aroma.  The combination of grapes coming from sea level and grapes coming from altitude, brings freshness from the altitude and more intensity and aroma from the one closer to the sea,” notes Antonio. 
 
Next on the menu is Homemade Tagliolini aromatic butter, parmigiano reggiano, truffle emulsion, Melanosporum black truffle paired with a 2015 Umani Ronchi “Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne” Verdicchio from the Castelli di Jesi vineyard.
 
Located in the Central east of the Italy, along the Adriatic coast, Umani Ronchi have vineyards in the Marche and Abruzzo regions.   It’s founder, Gino Umani Ronchi established the first small winery there in 1957.
 
“Between Tuscany and our region, there is a mountain chain, The Appenines, which makes the climate a bit different,” explains Michele Bernetti, the grandson of Massimo Bernetti, one of the early partners in the business. “We are still in central Italy, but the weather is rather cool because we are influenced by the eastern winds from Eastern Europe, which are a bit cooler.   Winds from the Atlantic are a bit warmer and have a bit more impact on Tuscany on the western side, but less on our region because we are protected by the mountains. 
 
“This allows our region to make very good white wines, in particular Verdicchio, which is considered one of the very authentic indigenous Italian varieties, but is really only cultivated in Marche, closer to the mountains.”
 
The Umani Ronchi “Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne” comes from relatively old vines of 50 years, all organically grown.  It is vinified in stainless steel, then aged in traditional concrete tanks, and kept on the yeast sur lie to give more complexity. It has a very mineral, yet elegant nose and according to Michele is considered “one of the most serious examples of Verdicchio.” 
 
“In total we own 210 hectares, 110 dedicated to Verdicchio. We make different levels and styles of Verdicchio because it has a lot of potential for variety,” says Michele.  
 
Our main course is a sumptuous Wagyu Beef Tenderloin roasted kohlrabi, with natural beef jus. For such a rich dish, we are treated to two pairings: the 2016 Donnafugata “Fragore” from the Montelaguardia district around Mt. Etna, and a 2010 Umani Ronchi “Campo San Giorgio” Conero Riserva.
 
“The Donnafugata “Fragore” comes from the driest part of the volcano. Mt. Etna’s altitude is 780 metres. During the day it can get quite warm, but at night the cold air comes down the mountain, so it’s always quite mild,” notes Antonio.  “Montelaguardia covers 4.5 hectares situated on a lava flow from 1614 and 1624. It’s a different composition from the rest of the volcano. Every lava flow has a different composition, which makes for a different wine.”
 
“Fragore” is made from Nerello Mascalese grapes, a highly regarded, dark-skinned grape variety native to this area of Sicily. Harvested quite late in mid-October, the wine is aged for 14 months in barrels and at least 10 months in the bottle, resulting in a clean yet complex palate, with scents of spice and flowers, and mineral and balsamic notes.
 
Moving back to the Adriatic, the 2010 Umani Ronchi “Campo San Giorgio” is a rich, full-bodied 100% Montepulciano, “one of the most planted red varieties in Italy.”   
 
“This is a relatively new project for us,” notes Michele.  “The weather is cooler, next to the sea, and quite breezy in the summer. But one challenge is that the fog from the ocean can attach to the skin of the grape and create some problems. So we planted 8,000 vines per hectare, in a kind of bush vine system, which is quite vigorous.”  
 
Aged for 12 months in small oak barrels and at least 8-10 months in the bottle, it is deep ruby red in colour with a fruity bouquet of cherry, plum and orange peel, and a long, aromatic finish.
 
Our delicious lunchtime journey comes to a delightful conclusion with an artisanal Italian cheese selection served with homemade compotes, paired with a 2016 Donnafugata “Ben Ryé” Passito di Pantelleria, an intensely sweet and complex wine, also made from Zibibbo grapes.
 
“We don’t use pesticide, we do it traditionally, which is very hard work. We have vines that are 150 years old, not grafted. Phylloxera didn’t affect Pantelleria.
 
“We dry the grapes for 20 days outside, in the sunshine and wind, hand turning every few days,” comments Antonio.  “Four kilograms of grapes are needed to make one kilogram of dry grapes.  It has a high concentration, 200 grams of sugar per litre, 14.3% alcohol.”
 
The result is a very refreshing, well-balanced, complex wine with a rich, floral aroma with notes of apricot and candied citrus zest, perfectly matched with our platter of fine Italian cheeses.
 
 
Wines available from SINO VANTAGE ASIA LTD
Tel (852) 2581 9129; Fax (852) 2581 9182
www.sinovantagewines.com 
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