a divine surprise

Wines from Jura, in the sub-alpine eastern part of France, are little known outside of wine aficionado circles.  This is mostly because the production is so small — about 100,000 hectoliters a year, against some six million for Bordeaux — and the fact that it is home to only seven AOCs if we include the latest one, the “Marc du Jura”, a brandy made from grapes distilled just like Cognac.

 

Before being hit by Phylloxera in the late 19th century, Jura was sown with 40 grape varieties over an area of 20,000 hectares, of which only five have survived on only a tenth of the planted area. If Chardonnay dominates the white grapes, it is indeed the indigenous Savagnin that brings the region its fame. Beyond Pinot noir, the native red grapes of Poulsard (or Ploussard), more on the cherry and blackcurrant notes, and Trousseau, with its bouquet of red berries, poppy flowers and violet, complement the distinctive identity of Jura wines.

 

Yet, clearly, it’s the Vin Jaune (literally “yellow wine”), made exclusively from Savagnin, that makes Jura stand out for producing one of the most unique dry white wines in the world — even though it represents less than five percent of the region’s total wine production. 

 

Vin Jaune is the result of a particular method that can only be found in its native Château-Chalon as well as Arbois, L’Etoile and Côtes du Jura AOCs. After the initial fermentation, the wine is left to age in oak barrels for at least six years and three months with almost no intervention from the winemaker apart from regular tastings. Because of the natural evaporation within an enclosed environment, a thin film of yeast forms on the surface, allowing for a rigorously controlled oxidation to take place. 

 

In the end, a bit less than 40 percent of the initial quantity evaporates, and the amazing golden liquid with its remarkable nut-rich and spicy flavors is then bottled in the unique “clavelin” bottle of 62cl, a witty reminder of the whole process.

 

When it comes to pairing, Vin Jaune is the perfect match for locally made Comté cheese, foie gras or a fattened chicken prepared in a creamy sauce with morel mushrooms. CLOSER was thus more than intrigued when invited to Jade Dragon restaurant at City of Dreams, to taste Jura wines with one of the ultimate Chinese delicacies: seasonal hairy crabs!

 

Ultimately, we came to realize that Vin Jaune actually had a lot in common with Shaoxing wine from Zhejiang (a huangjiu made from fermented rice) that is traditionally associated with the preparation and degustation of hairy crabs. Actually, in many ways Vin Jaune fared better, as its sturdy mineral structure was subtly supported by a rich aromatic bouquet that required no additional flavouring.

 

For the wine maker Frédéric Lornet, who was visiting Macau for the first time, the harmony almost came as no surprise, even though hairy crabs admittedly are not easy to come by in Arbois! Indeed, Jade Dragon’s Chef Tam Kwok Fungs delicate touch in contrasting tastes and textures made it possible that neither the delicacies nor the wines over-powered each another.

 

 

 

Produced exclusively from Chardonnay vines planted on the Messagelins parcel, hence its name, and aged on lees à la Chablis. Fresh and floral, yet slightly smoky, with a great balance between minerality and intensity. Touches of anise and fennel in the nose and on the palate. Great match with the boiled fish maw with crabmeat dumpling in a chicken broth.

 

 

 

The only red of the selection, made from the local Trousseau in a particular expression proper to Lornet’s vines, with a very low yield of 30hl/ha, here planted on gravels and red marls. Beautiful garnet color. Fine tannins, with strawberry and raspberry notes and a spicy finish, especially pepper, with almost a soya-sauce finish. Superb and delicate pairing with pan-seared Kobe beef with truffle salt.

 

 

 

The Vin de Paille is the naturally sweet wine from Jura made from the careful selection of late-harvested grapes — with no botrytis — that are then left to dry traditionally on well-ventilated “straw mats”, hence the name, for three months. Following that slow dehydration, grapes are subsequently slowly pressed and patiently aged in barrels for three years after fermentation. Lornet’s is made from Savagnin (50%), Poulsard (30%) and Chardonnay (20%). Amber gold in color, with powerful and complex aromas of dried fruits (apricot and quince) coated with honey notes on the palate. Great for desserts, including glutinous rice dumplings, and traditionally with foie gras.

 

 

 

Exclusively made of Naturé, the local name of the Savagnin. Very floral, with a clear expression of its “tramer” origins, especially the Gewürztraminer, hence a distinct lychee bouquet. The natural extension of the stir-fried crunchy vegetables accompanying pork cracknels topped with Sakura shrimps.

 

 

 

The self-proclaimed “king of wines” gets one of its best interpretations. Grapes are sourced from 50-year-old vines and fermented in 3,000 liters “foudres” — oak vats. Wine is left on its lees until the following spring, when it is racked and transferred to 228 liter barrels and left to age without topping off for seven years. Golden yellow, with powerful notes of floral scents, spices, and nuts as well as sweet almond. Full of finesse with a long finish. Astonishing match with a steamed whole hairy crab, steamed Kagani crabmeat dumplings and a braised lobster in hairy crab roe with crispy mantou.

 

It’s not every day that one gets to drink a unique blend of Grande Champagne 1974, Grande Champagne 1943 and aged-barrel eau-de-vie dating back to pre-Phylloxera 1870. From the cellars of the French Maison Tiffon and its Maître de Chais Richard Braastad, comes this unique alchemy of spirits put together by Master Blender Folke Andersson, whose nose and experience have dominated Swedish Vin and Spirits for over 30 years. Golden amber in color, with a matured nose, this distinctive “imperial” brandy develops complex aromas of apricot, sweet toffee and vanilla with a bouquet of licorice notes that linger for long-lasting minutes after the first sip. 

 

The spirit meets its soul mate with a remarkable “art vessel” designed by Swedish artist Göran Wärff, whose relationship with crystal dates back to the 1960s, and crafted by master glassblowers Jan-Erik Ritzman and Sven-Åke Carlsson in their workshop of Transjö Hytta, tucked deep inside the forests of the “Glass Kingdom” of southern Sweden. With its unique elongated and aerial shape, Göran Wärff succeeds in creating “a receptacle for light, warmth and sensuality”. Et Nº1 Cognac thus exemplifies a triumphant alliance of two traditions of excellence and luxury.

 

Melco Crown Entertainment have managed to acquire four bottles of this limited edition of 300 pieces only — all individually signed — created by Chapters of Ampersand, a Swedish company resolutely determined to associate its name with “cutting-edge design, high quality and true luxury”. These bottles are now on display and ready to be tasted by Cognac connoisseurs at Jade Dragon and The Tasting Room at City of Dreams, as well as the Pearl Dragon restaurant and the Premiere Bar at Studio City. 

 

 

 

 

When it comes to wine, Douro is most definitely the region that has put Portugal on the map of world fame. In great part, this is due to the fact that Douro is the birth place of Port Wine, and thus of that great fortified wine made famous by the British in the 18th century. 

 

But Douro is also one of the oldest protected wine regions in the world and Alto Douro was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2001 precisely for “its long tradition of viticulture [that] has produced a cultural landscape of outstanding beauty that reflects its technological, social and economic evolution”.

 

When formed in 2003, the playful collaboration of the “Douro Boys” made it its mission to enable “the dry wines of the Douro to achieve a level of recognition appropriate to their inherent quality, and to position them on an equal footing with port”. More than a decade later, nobody can deny that they have succeeded — in level, consistency and style, both energetic and flamboyant! 

 

And just last month, the group of winemakers were once again in Macau to present their finest produce to local wine lovers. The event started with a tasting session at Studio City and ended with a wonderful wine pairing dinner at The Tasting Room at City of Dreams.

 

The five estates, mainly Quintas, that make up the “fantastic five” — Quinta do Vallado, Niepoort, Quinta do Crasto, Quinta Vale D. Maria und Quinta do Vale Meão — have managed to truly make Douro, one of the 26 Portuguese DOCs, the “valley of the kings”, as it was once dubbed by The Guardian. Not a year passes without one of the estates being recognized for its achievements: Wine Spectator rated Quinta Do Vale Meão Douro 2011 as No. 4 of its Top 100 wines of 2014, and the same publication rated the Quinta do Crasto Douro Superior 2012, one of the wines tasted this time in Macau, as No. 25 of its Top 100 wines of 2015.

 

Although it is almost impossible to express a definite and articulated preference for one or the other, as they all truly transcend a careful expression of the granite and slate soils of Alto Douro, I must admit that I would personally go for Vale Meão (Meandro and Quinta) for its consistent red blend interpretations, Crasto for its fruit-rich 100 percent Touriga National and white Redoma (Niepoort) for its crispy combination of Rabigato and Códega. 

 

All the “Douro Boys” wines are exclusively distributed by Vino Veritas in Macau ([email protected]).