Is Bulgaria a wine-producing country? A curious and innocuous question, but a deeply painful one for many Bulgarians. In certain regards, the fate of Bulgarian viticulture almost mirrors its national history.
Early Days
The story began some 3,500 years ago, when viticulture took root in ancient Thrace, now southern Bulgaria. Benefitting from a variety of terroirs thanks to its diverse landscape, by classical antiquity Thrace was an important wine-producing region in the ecumene. So enchanted was Homer that a heavy, black, sweet wine from Thrace was mentioned in Iliad.
Viticulture continued to thrive under the First and Second Bulgarian Empire (681-1018; 1185-1396), until the Ottoman rulers enforced a ban on wine from 1396-1878, during which production shifted from vitis vinifera to table grapes.
The Viticultural Great Purge
In the 60s, Bulgaria’s wine industry was modernized with state-of-the-art Soviet facilities, producing huge amount of proletariat wine good for comrades across the Warsaw Pact. In terms of wine export (by volume), Bulgaria was second only to mighty France in 1989.
Then came the Great Purge, initiated not by the long expired Joseph Stalin (1878-1953), but by the last leader of the USSR Mikhail Gorbachev (1931-), who vowed to combat alcoholism. From 1989 to 1990, within merely one year, nearly all wineries, machineries, and vineyards were annihilated. But for the courage of some Bulgarian vintners, who concealed from the Soviet authorities at serious personal risk, Bulgarian viticulture would have been wiped out from the face of the earth.
The Future
Foreign investment since the mid-90s and EU funding after the country became a member state in 2007 have helped boost Bulgarian viticulture; total volume remains a small fraction of pre-1989 level, but quality-wise, improvements have been substantial.
At a recent tasting, Rhyton showcased 30+ wines from all 5 viticultural areas of the country: Danubian Plain (North), Black Sea (East), Rose Valley (Sub-Balkan), Thracian Lowland (South), and Struma River Valley (Southwest). As the first and so far only international distributor of Bulgarian wines, Rhyton currently represents 700+ wines from nearly 20 wineries, and the portfolio is set to further expand.
For Director Tenio Latev, himself Bulgarian and a core member of the forthcoming Bulgarian Chamber of Commerce Hong Kong-Macao, this is much more than merely business venture. “Bulgaria has much to offer in terms of wine and gourmet. People are often pleasantly shocked by how good value for money Bulgarian products are, be it wine, brandy, grappa, vodka, balsamic vinegar, truffle, or olive oil. In bringing these products to Hong Kong and Macao, one of our core markets, we invite people to discover Bulgaria’s many hidden gems, as well as our epicurean culture”, he explained.
Below are but four of the many wines that offer exceptional price-quality ratio, all below the HKD$/MOP$200 mark.
Black Sea Gold Muscat 2009
Pomorie has been a seaside resort since the Classical period. The eastern Black Sea region, meanwhile, is home to 30% of all vines – and 50% of all whites – in Bulgaria. Moderated by sea breeze, autumns are long and mild, ideal for grapes to achieve optimum maturation. Made with 100% Muscat Ottonel, the lightest of the Muscat family (comprising a staggering 200+ sub-varieties), this golden-green wine has an alluringly floral nose highlighted by geranium. Highly fragrant, raisin, honey, and musk flavours are supported by crispy minerality. Rounded and nicely balanced, the finish is satisfyingly persistent.
Lovico Gamza Reserve 2009
The town of Suhindol is part of the northern Danubian Plain region, wherein temperate continental climate guarantees hot and sunny summers. This is the only region in Bulgaria where Gamza is produced; otherwise known as Kadarka, this Eastern European variety has received much acclaim, thanks to Hungary’s iconic wine – Egri Bikavér (literally Bull’s Blood of Eger). Deep ruby in colour with garnet glow, aromas of cherry and red berries are supported by lively acidity and tasty tannin. Remarkably powerful for a medium-bodied wine, it is well-structured, with mineral nuances and a long finish.
Saint Ilia Estate Merlot & Mavrud 2008
The southern Thracian region, indeed the cradle of Bulgarian wine, has a hybrid temperate continental-Mediterranean climate. Produced only in this region, the time-old Mavrud (from Greek mavro, meaning “black”) is a small-berried, low-yielding, and late-ripening indigenous variety, as quintessential to Bulgaria as Touriga Nacional to Portugal. Ruby red in colour with violet tints, aromas of dark fruits and plum are immediately inviting. Complemented by an array of flavours on the palate, including forest herbs, fine vanilla, toast, and dry spices, this full-on wine is paradoxically fresh, warm, and supple.
Midalidare Estate Carpe Diem 2011
This is 21st century Bulgarian viticulture in a bottle, an interesting – and utterly international – blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and Syrah. Out goes Soviet rustiness, this wine resembles more of a feminine Left Bank Bordeaux. Bright ruby in colour with garnet hues, its aromatic nose of red berries, damson, and plum is further supported by vanilla and leather on the palate. Supple and juicy with fine grained tannin and a clear structure, this is a poised and very elegant wine. Seize the day (carpe diem, from ancient Roman lyric poet Horace) if you must, do not overlook its age-worthiness.
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Black Truffle Butter
Fine sheep & goat butter generously imbued with premium Bulgarian black truffle. Add a Midas touch on any dish. As a rule of thumb, do not use with tomato, lemon, or strong spices.
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CONTACT
Rhyton Co. Ltd.
Tenio Latev
Director
T: +852 6908 0739