Thermenregion (literally: hot springs region) is the southernmost wine-producing region of Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) with approximately 2,200 hectares under vine. Since Roman times, it has been known and frequented for its hot springs and spas, hence its name. There are many spa towns in Europe, especially in those areas which were part of the Roman Empire, but spa towns with viticulture are much less common.
In France, spa towns often contain the word Bains (literally: baths) in their names, whereas in Germany, they often include Bad(en) (literally: bath(s)). Situated just 30km south of Vienna, Baden – originally Thermae Pannonicae (literally: Pannonian hot springs) and not to be confused with Germany’s Baden-Baden – is the main spa town in Thermenregion.
The viticultural history of Thermenregion dates back more than 2,000 years, initiated by Roman legionnaires stationed in Carnuntum and Vindobona (modern day Vienna), both of which have been producing wine ever since. In the mid-12th century, Benedictine (Ordo Sancti Benedicti) and Cistercian monks (Ordo Cisterciensis) from the Cluny Abbey and Cîteaux Abbey in Burgundy, first introduced Pinot Noir to the region. Thermenregion, therefore, is akin to Burgundy outside of Burgundy.
Thermenregion as a modern wine region was established in 1985, when the separate wine-producing regions of Gumpoldskirchen and Bad Vöslau were merged. Protected from the cold Alpine climate by Wienerwald (Vienna Woods) in the west, Thermenregion blissfully enjoys the warm Pannonian climate from the east and long sunshine hours (average 1,800+ hours per year).
Its diverse soil compositions range from loamy to pebbly to stony, with substantial deposits of marine fossils underneath. This is ideal for keeping warmth, providing free-flowing drainage and mineral nutrients. In fact, since Thermenregion is almost too warm for Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, the best sites are often occupied by a host of rare grape varieties.
Co-managed by brothers Christian, Johannes and Michael Reinisch, Johanneshof Reinisch is one of Austria’s pre-eminent producers of red wines, as much as it is a guardian of rare varieties. At the VieVinum in Hofburg Palace, Macau CLOSER had the opportunity to interview Johannes Reinisch.
Apart from Pinot Noir, Johanneshof Reinisch is revered for its lesser-known varieties ñ what do these varieties mean to you?
What is uniform can be easily replaced, but what is individual is unique. We love Sankt Laurent, Rotgipfler and Zierfandler as much as we do Pinot Noir, not for the sake of rarity, but because we genuinely believe in their enormous potential.
Viticulturally, how would you compare and contrast Sankt Laurent and Pinot Noir?
Sankt Laurent is like a saint, it needs to suffer a little bit, such as by way of poor soil and an austere environment, in order to achieve greatness. Pinot Noir, meanwhile, is like a princess, having much high requirements with regards to growing conditions. Sankt Laurent should be tannins-driven, whereas Pinot Noir acidity-driven.
How would you summarise as your winemaking philosophy?
We are three brothers working on two terroirs with just one objective – to produce great wines. We do this by transferring terroirs into bottles as much as our abilities permit. We uphold heritage and tradition for the future, and that is why we embrace organic viticulture in all 40ha of our vineyards.
Thermenregion’s Unique Varieties
For a relatively small wine-producing region, Thermenregion is remarkable for its viticultural diversity, with various hidden gems of grape varieties to be discovered. As in Austrian history, quite a few varieties indigenous to the region are in fact partly foreign:
- Rotgipfler: related to the Traminer family from South Tyrol (until 1919 Austrian, now Italian); named after the red tips of its stalks and vine leaves; aromatic and full-bodied, it is often blended with Zierfandler.
- Zierfandler: related to the Traminer family; also known as Spätrot (literally: late red), due to the blush on the grapes just before harvest; capable of producing exotic and spicy wines, regarded as the nobler of the Rotgipfler-Zierfandler blend.
- Sankt Laurent: related to the Pinot family, named after Saint Lawrence Day, which falls on 10th August, when grapes begin to redden; aromatic and potent with dark fruits and silky tannins, it has a particular oak affinity and is suitable for long-term cellaring.
- Blauer Portugieser: introduced from Porto, Portugal, to Bad Vöslau in 18th century.
Johanneshof Rheinisch Gumpoldskirchner Tradition 2015
A blend of Rotgipfler and Zierfandler in equal parts. Luminous citrine with pastel golden reflex, the uplifting nose offers apple, grapefruit, wet stone and daffodil. Anchored by buoyant acidity and clean minerality, the energetic palate delivers calamansi, quince, crushed rock and lemon blossom. Medium-full bodied at 12.5%, the citrusy entry carries onto a lively mid-palate, leading to a spicy finish.
Johanneshof Rheinisch Pinot Noir 2014
Could this be the epitome of Old World Pinot Noir? A cuvée of various clones from Austria, France, Germany, Italy and Switzerland, 2/3 sourced from Tattendorf and 1/3 from Gumpoldskirchen, the former for power and the latter for elegance, barrel-matured for 12 months. Rich ruby with cardinal-purple rim, the floral nose presents blackberry, blueberry, crushed rock and violet. Braced by juicy acidity, fine tannins and clear minerality, the delightful palate furnishes cranberry, redcurrant, red tea and geranium. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the bright entry continues through a polished mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.
Johanneshof Rheinisch Frauenfeld Sankt Laurent 2013
A single-vineyard single-varietal Sankt Laurent, barrel-matured for 16 months. Rich garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the aromatic nose provides blackberry, black cherry, allspice, sous bois and fragrant oak. Supported by vivacious acidity, silky tannins and articulate minerality, the expressive palate supplies cassis, mulberry, spice box, forest mushroom and tobacco leaf. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the dense entry persists through a suave mid-palate, leading to an elegant finish.
Johanneshof Rheinisch Holzspur Pinot Noir 2013
A single-vineyard single-varietal Pinot Noir, barrel-matured for 16 months. Rich garnet with cardinal-crimson rim, the spellbinding nose effuses cassis, red cherry, black truffle, fur, crushed rock and violet. Underpinned by refined acidity, velvety tannins and structured minerality, the hypnotic palate emanates blackberry, raspberry, red tea, sous bois, game and fine oak. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, poised entry evolves into a chiselled mid-palate, leading to a graceful finish.
