Mathieu Gaignon became the new Beverage Director at The Seasons, the training restaurant of the Macau University of Science and Technology (MUST), in January this year. Since then, he has been building up the wine list of the restaurant (about 250 labels from all around the world) and also sharing his extensive experience as a sommelier with both students and wine connoisseurs.
Born in Saumur, in the Loire Valley, Mathieu admits that early on he naturally fell into the gastronomic trade because of his family — his brother is a chef, his mother a marvelous cook and some of his siblings grow vineyards. After being formally trained as a sommelier, he left for Wales out of curiosity and to broaden his horizons.
One thing led to another, and he soon found himself in London working for what his profession calls “starred fine-dining restaurants”, shoulder-to-shoulder with celebrity chefs like Gordon Ramsay (Hospital Road), Angela Hartnett (The Connaught Hotel), Eric Chavot (The Capital), Marcus Wareing (Pétrus) and Hélène Darroze (The Connaught Hotel).
In 2010, Mathieu came to Macau to become the Head Sommelier for the restaurant endowed with the most comprehensive and prestigious wine list in Asia: Robuchon au Dôme at the Grand Lisboa. In 2013, he moved to City of Dreams as wine director and F&B manager, until realizing that maybe it was time for him to put his 15-year plus experience to a related yet different purpose: education, both in class and within a training restaurant.
With The Seasons came the opportunity to transmit his knowledge through very practical encounters, and right from the start Mathieu decided to organize tastings and wine appreciation classes on top of his workshops for students. It was during one of these classes, held on the last Thursday of every month, that CLOSER had the opportunity to taste emblematic wines from the Rioja region —the topic “on the lips” for September.
Each of these tastings brings together about fifteen wine amateurs on a first-come first-served basis, including a student from MUST, to discuss and appreciate various wines, all from different producers and sourced by Mathieu himself – independent from any vendor.
And while the gathering traditionally starts with an introduction by the professional sommelier, the purpose is to get the conversation rolling and thus interactively learn “how to speak about wines” and understand the alchemy of food and wine pairing. Pedantry has no place in this assembly and only the palate rules. As Mathieu rightly puts it himself, “after all, it is the wine we drink, not the labels.”
Out of the six wines tasted that night, CLOSER has chosen four to highlight including: the R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia, collectively voted the “wine of the night”. As hoped, diversity, value for money and the fostering of wine culture were the real features of the evening. Stay tuned for upcoming events organized by Mathieu, including a promising “wine and cheese” event in October.
Bodegas Amézola de la Mora, Rioja Crianza, Viña Amézola, 2008
90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano. Aged 10 months in 50% American and 50% French oak. Deeply colored with brilliant transparency typical of age worthy Rioja Alta wines. A violet-scented nose of red and black fruits is subtly complemented by sweet oak. Firm yet refreshing on the palate, with considerable length. Opens up with air.
R. López de Heredia, Rioja Reserva, Viña Tondonia, 2002
The 2002 Vina Tondonia Reserva is a blend of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho and 10% of Mazuelo together with Graciano. Aged for six years in used barrels, racked twice per year during its upbringing and fined with egg whites before being bottled unfiltered. It has a slightly reduced nose that benefits from air contact, with shy aromas of cherries in liqueur, tea leaves, fine leather, game, blood, spice box and cigar ash, showing some evolution. The light to medium-bodied palate is balanced, with high acidity, but perhaps a little fragile, showing the difficulties of the vintage, as 2002 was a very difficult year in Rioja.
Marqués de Riscal, Rioja Reserva, 2010
Marqués de Riscal, the oldest Rioja house, has for many years been a leading and pioneering company in the wine producing sector. As far back as 1858, it became the first winery in Rioja to produce wines following the Bordeaux method, and in 1972 it was the first winery to promote the Rueda Designation of Origin, where it produced its famous Marqués de Riscal white wines. Dark cherry color with good depth. Balsamic aromas with hints of ripe fruit. The attack is fresh and light, with soft, rounded tannins. Spicy and complex, the finish is persistent with subtle toasted oak character. Elegant, fresh and easy to drink.
Bodegas Lan, Rioja Gran Reserva, 2005
The 2005 Gran Reserva is a blend of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo and 5% Graciano: a selection of the best grapes from 20- to 25-year-old vines that is then aged in American and French oak for 24 months. It has an intense minty nose of blackberry, smoke and grilled meats that is well-defined, but surprisingly taut considering the vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with a tarry, leathery entry. The tannins are fine and linear, the finish classic in style with a dash of white pepper and tar. This is a very well-made Gran Reserva drinking beautifully now, but certainly has the substance to keep.
For additional information about the wines, please contact Mathieu Gaignon, Beverage Director at The Seasons and Deputy Director of the Macao Wine Culture Association at [email protected]
