Humans are an insatiably thirsty species. Since the Neolithic Revolution in the 10th millennium BC, when humans first transformed from itinerant hunter-gatherers into stationary farmers, our progenitors have been laying theirs hands on practically anything fermentable and turning them into alcoholic beverages, be it fruits (cider and wine), grains (beer and cereal wine), honey (mead), sap (Mesoamerican pulque and African palm wine) or horse milk (Central Asian kumis). Some of the oldest alcoholic beverages such as beer, cereal wine and wine predate written history, belonging to the realm of national psyche, mythology and religion.
The term “cereal wine” is a convenient but imprecise one. Strictly speaking, wine is made from fermenting natural sugars in fruits, whereas cereal wine is made from fermenting sugars converted from starch in grains. Beer and cereal wine differ from each other in that beer relies on natural enzymes for fermentation, but cereal wine depends on microbes; consequently, saccharification and fermentation occur separately in beer, but simultaneously in cereal wine.
If mythology contains a grain of truth, Chinese cereal wine was invented either in the mid-3rd millennium BC by Du Kang, purportedly a minister of the Yellow Emperor, or even earlier. So important a libation was Chinese cereal wine, that it was attested in oracle bone script during the Shang dynasty and institutionalised by the Rites of Zhou during the eponymous dynasty.
Cereal wine can be made from a wide range of grains, such as barley, coixseed, millet, rice, sorghum and wheat. A category of cereal wine, mijiu (rice wine) is popular in southern China and is the precursor of Japanese sake and Korean cheongju, whereas baijiu (grain-based spirit) takes precedence in northern China. The spiritual home of huangjiu (“yellow wine”), a style of mijiu, is arguably the Jiangnan region, and Shaoxing of Zhejiang is particularly famed for its fine huadiao (“flowery carving”; a style of huangjiu, named after its embossed container).
Despite its name, huangjiu is actually not yellow, but blackish brown, similar to a Pedro Ximénez sherry. After being dehusked and degermed, the rice – whether glutinous, short-grained or long-grained – is then soaked in water and cooked by steaming. To kick-start saccharification and fermentation, jiuqu (starter culture) is added. Pressed to separate it from the lees, the fine liquid is then pasteurised, filtered, aged and bottled. Immensely versatile, huangjiu can be served chilled, at room temperature, or warm; it is not only the soul of any “drunken” dishes, but also the soulmate of the seasonal hairy crab.
Agência Superar has been the exclusive distributor of Guyuelongshan – one of the internationally renowned brands of huangjiu – in Macau for nearly two decades. As proprietor John Ng explains: “a time-old symbol of Chinese culture, huangjiu pairs extremely well with various traditions of Chinese cuisine, be it Shanghainese or Cantonese. Uniquely rich in amino acids, huangjiu is not only delicious, but also wholesome. Macau has a huge variety of alcoholic beverages, but huangjiu will always occupy a very special place in my heart.”
STYLISTIC VERSATILITY
Special designations are not the prerogative of German wine. Ranging from bone-dry to decadently sweet, huadiao in its various styles can pair with any course in a meal. The best-known styles are:
– zhuangyuanhong (“champion’s red”): traditionally made upon the birth of a baby boy, aged underground in earthware and intended to be served at his celebration banquet, but more often at wedding banquets, as there could only be one champion of the Imperial exam every three years; fully dry and very elegant.
– nüerhong (“daughter’s red”): traditionally made upon the birth of a baby girl, aged underground in earthware and served at her wedding banquet; complex flavours are said to be reminiscent of her parents’ feelings.
– jiafan (“added rice”): off-dry, akin to Kabinett.
– shanniang (“best made”): off-sweet, comparable to Spätlese.
– fenggang (“sealed vessel”): fully sweet, equivalent to Auslese.
– xiangxue (“fragrant snow”): with up to 200g of sugar per litre, similar to Beerenauslese.
GUYUELONGSHAN SHAOXING HUADIAO
20 YEAR OLD
Radiant mahogany with amber-tawny reflex, the perfumed nose emanates dried osmanthus, tangerine peel, caterpillar fungus and dried shrimps. With a velvety texture, dainty acidity and boundless umami, the weightless palate emanates dried longan, lingzhi mushroom, oolong tea and conpoy. Medium-bodied at 15%, the elegant entry persists through a gracious mid-palate, leading to a haunting finish.
10 YEAR OLD
Luminous mahogany with copper-tangelo reflex, the floral nose furnishes dried apricot, salted plum, dried cordyceps flower and dried oyster. With a silky texture, vivacious acidity and substantial umami, the redolent palate provides loquat, dried persimmon, hazelnut and conch consommé. Medium-full bodied at 15%, the tea-like entry evolves into a melodious mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.
5 YEAR OLD
Bright mahogany with amber-marigold reflex, the fragrant nose presents clementine peel, jujube, dried tiger daylily bud and dried mussel. With a harmonious texture, energetic acidity and rich umami, the vibrant palate supplies dates, dried mushroom, brown sugar and chicken broth. Medium-bodied at 17%, the suave entry continues through a rounded mid-palate, leading to an elongated finish.
3 YEAR OLD
Rich mahogany with pumpkin-tangerine reflex, the aromatic nose offers wolfberry, walnut, almond shell and red bean paste. With a vinous texture, lively acidity and appetising umami, the tasty palate delivers ume, star anise, shitake mushroom and wood ear. Medium-full bodied at 17%, the fresh entry carries onto a tangy mid-palate, leading to a long finish.
MR JOHN NG
T – +853 2871 9978
F – +853 2871 7936
RUA DOS PESCADORES 76-84, EDIFÍCIO NDUSTRIAL NAM FUNG BLOCO II, ANDAR 4G
Photo Credit: Eduardo Martins
