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Champagne Chic

With its rich history, complex production methods and celebrated aura of elegance and prestige, Champagne is indeed one of the most popular and famous drinks on the planet. And yet it was not that long ago that marketing this bubbly delight in Macau was a bit of a hard sell. In a market traditionally dominated by Portuguese reds, it is only recently that popping a Champagne cork has become the thing do at parties, gatherings and fun nights out. The boom in luxury hotels and restaurants, together with rising affluence and tastes in China has no doubt played its part in this evolution. This month, we take a look at this fascinating and delicious beverage, and speak to just a few connoisseurs in town about why they love it so much. Santé!
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With its rich history, complex production methods and celebrated aura of elegance and prestige, Champagne is indeed one of the most popular and famous drinks on the planet.  And yet it was not that long ago that marketing this bubbly delight in Macau was a bit of a hard sell.  In a market traditionally dominated by Portuguese reds, it is only recently that popping a Champagne cork has become the thing do at parties, gatherings and fun nights out.  The boom in luxury hotels and restaurants, together with rising affluence and tastes in China has no doubt played its part in this evolution.  This month, we take a look at this fascinating and delicious beverage, and speak to just a few connoisseurs in town about why they love it so much.  Santé!
 
 
Originally made by humble monks to earn money to support their monasteries, wines from Champagne were adopted by French royalty as the courtly drink as early as the 8th century.  From the 16th and 17th centuries onward, their popularity among the artistocracy continued to grow.  
 
Today, only wine made from grapes grown in the 33,500 hectare region in the far Northeast of France can be labeled Champagne, a trademark name that is perhaps even more valuable than some of the finest bottles bearing its name.  
 
So what is it about this clear, bubbly drink with its crisp, fresh acidity and minerality that makes it such a symbol of prestige and success?
 
“Champagne is a drink associated with special occasions, celebrations and the finer things in life,” notes Don Hall, president of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne in Macau.  “I enjoy it due to its refreshing nature, elegant style and ability to be consumed anywhere,” he adds.
 
Chef de Cuisine at City of Dreams’ The Tasting Room, Guillaume Galliot agrees: “Champagne has been a festive drink since the days of Louis XVI.  I love it because it always means I am with friends or family and it’s always an unforgettable moment.  It’s also my favorite drink. I could happily drink it every day!”
 
Indeed its close association with notions of celebration really do give Champagne its special place in our drinking culture.
 
“It has always been a celebratory drink and highly glamorized by the French as well as Hollywood!” says Patrick Ting, COO of Seapower Trading Company, who represent Perrier-Jouët in Macau. “Whether it is winning an F1 race or some sporting event – Champagne is both sprayed in joy and celebration, as well as consumed! At weddings, birthdays or any celebratory event, Champagne is almost a must!”
 
What really makes Champagne special of course is the region in which it is grown – the terroir as the French say – that complex and mysterious mix of soil and microclimates that gives any wine its unique characteristics. Champagne is actually one of the northernmost wine growing regions in the world, almost pushing the geographic boundaries of where wine can be produced. But 245 million years ago it was actually the floor of a large prehistoric sea. The fossilized remains of marine animals eventually turned to chalk, giving the region its famous soil quality, so ideal for growing grapes.  Not only does the chalky earth retain just the right amount of water to stop the vines from drying out, but 30 metres deep underground, it also helps to create the cool, humid conditions in the caves below that are home to millions of bottles being aged to perfection.
 
And while flutes overflowing on special occasions is the common image we have, like most wines, Champagne’s qualities are best appreciated when enjoyed with a meal.  
 
 
“Pairing is very important,” explains Mathieu Gaignon, Director of Wines at The Tasting Room at City of Dreams. “Each house has their own style, so you have to understand whether you are having it with an aperitif, a starter, a main course or the entire meal.  A light and fresh Champagne like Blanc de Blancs as an aperitif, something with more minerality for starters like seafood or caviar, and followed with a heavier style for the main course. Light poultry with creamy sauces can work beautifully with an older vintage Champagne which has seen some oak during the fermentation or ageing process. Rosé Champagne is also good to have from the start to the end!” he adds.
 
“Keep it light and fun, it doesn’t always have to follow the rules,” advises Don Hall. “Champagne can pair with anything from the top caviar as an aperitif, to most light dishes. Not with heavy red meats, but definitely with your favourite desert. In fact Champagne goes very well with most desserts – Crepe Suzettes and anything chocolate”.
 
While seven grape varieties are permitted and grown in Champagne, the famous flavours come mostly from three grape varieties: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier – both black grapes – and Chardonnay. Its crystal clear colour is achieved by extracting the juice quickly and not allowing it to come into contact with the grape skins, except in the case of Rosé Champagne. 
 
Most Champagnes are non-vintage, made by blending wine from different years and different harvests. Often 30 to 50 different wines are carefully blended, always making sure that the end results are consistent year to year, in order to maintain the distinctive characteristics of the house.  
 
Vintage Champagnes are also made from a blend of grapes, however 85 percent must have been harvested in the same year. This gives the winemakers more opportunity for creativity as they are looking to create a unique identity for that particular vintage. 
 
But not all years produce the right quality conditions to make a vintage, and that’s why a good vintage can become very valuable.  Dom Pérignon, which only makes vintage Champagnes, only produced 40 vintages between 1921 and 2004.  Its current release is from 2004.
 
“Some vintages are very rare like Krug 2000, Moët & Chandon 2000, and Dom Pérignon Rosé 2004,” comments Sandy Leong, director and general manager of Great Time Ltd, distributors of Moët & Chandon, Dom Pérignon, Krug and Veuve Clicquot in Macau. “These rarer vintages are provided on an allocation basis, maybe only 50-100 cases depending on world demand. We have private collectors who buy for investment, and usually the value can increase quite quickly, maybe even double every year. Collectors in Macau are still trying to buy these vintages but we are out of stock”.
 
Investors aside, even the average consumer in Macau is starting to gain an appreciation for Champagne, and the market is growing. 
 
“Before it was not so popular and quite a challenge to promote and market Champagne in Macau, but now the international hotels and restaurants have had a big influence. In China also, it has become a very popular drink for young people, and that has impacted on Macau,” says Sandy. “Twenty years ago we sold around 20 cases of Moët & Chandon per year.  Now it is over 4000.  Krug and Moët & Chandon are the most popular,” she adds.
 
Roy Kong is the bar manager at Galaxy Macau’s exclusive China Rouge.  He has also seen a shift in customer tastes in just the last few years.
 
“There has been a big change since the opening of China Rouge.  In the beginning of China Rouge there were not many people drinking Champagne,” he notes.  “Now many Chinese people are travelling to other countries and they see how other people celebrate, so when they come back they want to order a bottle themselves. It’s a very universal gesture to toast with Champagne for celebrations.  Also they feel it’s very easy to drink, much easier than Chinese rice wine, and more elegant”.
 
Roy says that well known brands like Dom Pérignon and Veuve Clicquot are the most popular.  And as people’s tastes mature, so their budget for finer Champagne increases also.
 
“We have premium labels that start from MOP3,000 a bottle and go up to MOP20,000”.
 
Down the road at City of Dreams, Club Cubic is another popular place to enjoy premium Champagne labels.
 
“Over the last three years, our Perriet-Jouët Champagne has grown from obscurity to one of the most widely drunk Champagnes at Club Cubic,” says Patrick Ting of Seapower Trading.  “The Perriet-Jouët market is great and there is room for a lot more Champagne to be consumed. We only sell to premier outlets, and brand events are targeted towards those with deep pockets and also those who enjoy the notoriety of being able to afford Perriet-Jouët Champagne.  Whenever someone orders Perrier-Jouët at Cubic it’s a very public display and people enjoy the “look at me” effect that comes with it.”

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